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Re: 2004 HD roadking, FI.
Had the same issue with an early twin cam that belonged to a buddy. he had this wierd kinda intake thing that looked like the intake with the round flaps that you used to see on a hot rod back in the day. I don't think it did anything but look cool to him.
but anyway it was crazy hard to warm up when cold. if you are starting this bike in an ambient of 40f or less it will take some time to warm up. which I don't understand because the twin cam runs hot like 220 plus. give it extra time to warm up in cold weather. might be nothing wrong with the bike... I mean maybe what your up against isn't a breakdown of the machine but poor engineering (WHO SAID THAT?) anyhoo I've seen it too and everything was tip top far as the HD cronies said
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I would also check for a vacuum leak (intake manifold seal) or a faulty throttle position sensor. Check the intakes first, hold the motor steady above idle and squirt some carb cleaner where the manifold connects to the head. If the motor jumps up in speed right away, you located the leak. A quick shot is all you need to check. Replace both seals at the same time.
The throttle position sensor would need to be checked with a multi-meter. If the sensor (potentiometer) does not change resistance smoothly, it can become "lost". With the engine off, you can disconnect the plug and measure the resistance across the sensor. Get a extra hand to work the throttle from idle to WOT slowly. Watch the resistance change on the meter. If the reading jumps around or goes "open" while moving the throttle, the sensor is faulty.
i take it its carb. after it warms up to operating temps does it stop the sputtering? thats just a HD CV carb doing what it does til hot. Im not talking a 2 min warm up and off u go im talking operating temps of 200 plus. Is the carb an S&S? Your going to have high rpms til the temp kicks it down if its injected
test or replace your ignition module,and you might find the actual prob by accident the connector for the module sometimes with age lose or only have intermittant contact.a can of electrical contact cleaner should take care of it but those symptoms scream ignition mod dont know why hd dealer couldnt find it but they dont put their best techs on older bikes
Your bike is carb or injected? Anyway Hd that are injected start at high RPM and after heating up the idle kicks down. You have a Temp sensor for this, which sounds like it is bad. I can not believe your bike would run at 100 rpm no way. harley runs at 950 to 1050 at an idle. It does not sound like you have a carb so Im not going to go into that fix.
You might have a bad sensor, The bank angle sensor turns off the ignition system when it THINKS the bike is leaning over 55 degrees. . The sensor is located behind the electrical panel and can be checked with a magnet. Electrical probelms can be a *****. Start by checking your charging system. Put a voltmeter on your battery. It should read about 12.5. Turn the engine on and the reading should increase to about 13.5. If it decreases, its the regulator or stator.
I had a bad crank position sensor on my wideglide that took me hours to run down. Good luck. Let me know what you find
Sounds like a mapping issue with whatever f.i. add on you have. could also be the pintle sticking on the throttle body. take the air cleaner off, look at the inside of the throttle body. at the top there will be a little hole. that's where the pintle is. it retracts and expands for cold starting and hot idle as well. if you turn the bike on and off it should cycle. ( extend and retract ) if it doesn't then the pintle needs to be replaced.
Just a couple questions, then I'll see if I can point you in the right direction. Did you purchase from the dealer or individual? What exactly is it doing when you hit the switch?
If I don't get back to you tonight, I will tomorrow morning. It's a beautiful evening here in Missouri The hurricane has pushed some real nice 70 degree weather up here, and it beats the hell out of the 100 degree heat we've been having. So, I'm gonna ride.
This could be the air filter, check and clean it, then go ride to see if the cleaning cured it. Also check the breather tube for the blow by from the heads where it dumps into the air filter assembly, if something is partially plugging them it could cause this. It could also be the fuel mixture isn't quite right, and needs adjusted. The only way to pull the codes is to find a shop with a code reader. Most likely it's going to have to be an HD dealer, but you can check with some of the smaller shops locally. I'm really getting irritated with HD for going to the electronic era and making their bikes as hard to work on as some of the cars now days. Their not simple anymore, and what used to be a simple diagnostics is turning out to be a major event. This is why I like my 95 model, old, carbed, simple!!! Anyway, Ive ranted enough, hope this helps in solving the problem. If you need anything else, just ask.
Have not worked on an HD but my thoughts and additional guesses would be: 1. fuel contamination (water at bottom of tank); 2. primary pump (in my case it was inside the fuel tank & might not be present in your bike); 3. fuel lines & clamps to & from primary pump or to the carbs; 4. in line filters; 5. vacuum controlled fuel valve (oppose to the usual manual petcock) 6. if it were the MAP sensor, bike wouldn't even run a block away + idling would be rough; 7. by chance are you using a Power Commander?
Also your post "bike will start and run fine for a few blocks then die" indicates that indeed fuel got into the carbs before but not when running meaning the bike used what was inside the bowl and was not replenished. Alternately, the fuel flow to the carbs might not be sufficient and there is a leak or a blockage somewhere.
As said might not work for your bike but has come across some of the above on numerous occasions.