Question about Dryers
Replace the drums drive belt along with the tensioners puley. The pulley does wear out causing the belt to break. Sears does sells these as a kit form
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi i too had that problem,when an engineer looked at it the thermostat,element were ok,he suggested that there was a blockage in the air flow,i took the whole thing apart ( i had nothing to lose ) cleaned it with a hoover very carefully then with a clean dry paintbrush,there is vents underneath the dryer if these get blocked the dryer blows cold air, its a saftey measure so that the fluff dosent catch fire ! i hope this helps,mine has run ok for 3 months now.
Posted on Mar 09, 2007
Before ripping into the dryer, with the dryer running, check the vent outside. There should be a rather strong air flow. I'll bet you have little or maybe no air flow. Check behind the dryer to make sure you don't have squished flex duct. If you have flex pipe, try running the dryer for a few minutes with the dryer pulled out into the room to stretch the vent out, and check outside airflow again. Try to eliminate all or as much of the flex stuff as you can, replacing it with aluminum dryer vent pipe. (tape joints with foil duct tape) Clean out remaining dryer vent. (there are special brushes you can buy to clean out vents, but they really only work on ridgid pipe.)
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer tumbles, no heat
Fist thing to check is if the manual reset on the heater box has tripped. That dryer can be serviced from the front. Also, there is a heater upgrade kit that can be purchased from Fisher Paykel Parts that has several updated parts in it for the top load electric dryers.
There are several things that can cause the reset to pop out. You may have a lint build up behind the shroud where the lint bucket fits.
This is a complicated appliance. You may wish to obtain a service manual for it.
Link to factory service manual:
Link to heater upgrade kit:
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
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