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Re: 1965 Frigidaire unit - heavy ice build up on coils
Sound like the defrost thermistat or heater is bad. Regardless if you have ice block on coils defrost thermistat must be replaced. Even if still good it gets damaged. Empty out fridge and let manually defrost for 24 to 48 hours. With doors open and unplugged. Test heater with a meter to see if its still good. Replace defrost thermistat and plug back in.
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If refrigerant charge is ok, make sure that the evaporator coil is not covered with ice. The latter serves as an insulator and will keep unit from achieving designed low temps. Remove ice by defrosting unit manually and then restarting unit. If ice continues to build up at alarming rate check for the tightness of door gaskets. If lots of moisture gets into unit, it will collect and freeze on coil. Also check to see that the defrost timer is not going on excessively. Those defrost cycles can raise internal temps by as much as 25 degrees; if the cycles come on prematurely and/or very often internal temps will be high.
Bonjour, That's not a potentiometer you turned it's the defrost timer gear knob. What you were doing is aborting the defrost cycle and allowing frost or ice to build up on the freezer coils. It built up enough to clog the airflow and the temperature in the freezer started going up. The compressor seems to be operating normally. Follow along through a defrost cycle To start defrost the defrost timer stops the compressor and all fans. Next it turns on the defrost heater. This melts the ice/frost off the freezer coils. The water drips down the drain line to the drain pan under the unit. If the defrost heater raises the temperature too high the defrost termination thermostat turns the heaters off. When the defrost timer times out it turns off the heaters and turns the compressor and fans back on. If the drain line clogs with food the water does not drain out and when the compressor starts again the water freezes. If this keeps happening the ice gets higher and bigger until it clogs the coils and the freezer does not get cold. If the defrost termination thermostat turns off the defrost heaters too soon all the frost is not melted from the coils. And the coils soon clog and the freezer gets too warm. If the defrost heater is bad no frost gets melted off the coils and the airflow quickly gets clogged. No defrost usually means either a bad defrost timer, a clogged drain line, a bad defrost termination thermostat or bad defrost heater. You can take a chance and replace the defrost timer. If that's the only problem your back in business. OR If the drain line is not stopped up you can try this. Remove all food from freezer and refrigerator, open the doors and unplug the cord. Wait 24 hours for all the frost/ice to melt. Keep the doors wide open and the cord unplugged the whole time. If the drain pan fills with water that's a good sign that the drain line is not clogged. Empty the drain pan often to keep water off the floor. After 24 hours the drain line should have stopped dripping water. If it's still dripping wait until it stops. Plug the cord back in, close the doors and wait for 1/2 cup of water to turn to ice in the freezer. Then you can put the food back in. The problem will return if the unit is not defrosting. Changing a defrost timer is not too hard. Unplug the cord. Locate the defrost timer. Take out the mounting screws and remove the part. Unplug the wires, plug them into the new part and remount it. Don't forget the ground wire if it has one. Plug the cord back in and see what happens. If you did not defrost the unit turn that timer knob very very very slowly until you hear the compressor stop. Then wait to see if the drain line is dripping water into the drain pan. If it is your in business. If not either the drain line is clogged, the defrost heater is burned out or the defrost termination thermostat is bad and has the defrost heater shut off. OR Or you can call a service technician.
Replace the aftermarket 3n1 gizmo with another one, its probably burnt out again, the compressor should almost always run if the fan is running, if it does not, it needs a new start mechanizm, thats the aftermarket thing your talking about, make sure you wire it the same as the old one
Your auto defrost system is faulty. But, there are several parts that can be the problem. The defrost timer, the defrost stat, the defrost coil, or the drain line clogged ( but usually not a drain clog problem with a side by side refrig.). The timer is the first to check- it is either in frig compartment, or under neath refrig. in the front. If it is mechanical you can check it , but if it is electronic, you need a tester. The other 2 items are located in the back of the freezer compartment (coil and stat) and you need to have all ice completey removed to access these parts. Again, you will need a tester (elec. continuity or ohm tester).
The stat is $10-15. coil is $30-65, timer $20-35 if mechanical. Goodluck, Macgivor
Make sure the fan underneath near the compressor is running.
If it is check the defrost system.
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DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle. If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer. If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm. You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced. The defrost heateris
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode. If
you have a defrost
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle. If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Jimmmyj is probably on target with the timer. All frost-free refrigerator-freezers have a thing in the system called
a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks
accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles
through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the
humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is
not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the
coils to chill the inside of the box. The Defrost timer in all boxes
fails eventually from old age. When that happens, the coils frost over
until they become pretty much just a solid block of ice. Most timers
are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille
under the door. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can
be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is running, give the
shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor will stop.
Give the fridge an hour to defrost the coils, and check it to see if it
took off running. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a
while. If this is the case, the unit will chill, and buy you some time
to get it fixed. If the timer does not run, you can repeat the process
daily until you get a replacement timer. If the unit does not chill,
there is some other problem either with the defrost heater coils, or the thermodisk. Be advised, all that ice may overflow the pan under the unit.
Your auto defrost is not working. remove the rear assembly inside the freezer and melt any builtup ice with a hair dryer. Then check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. If OK then check the defrost timer located either in the fridge compartment behind the temp control or under fridge in frount behind grill. A continuity test is good for timer contacts. Heater is typ. 30 - 40 ohms. Thermostat will read short short below 35 degrees and open above 45 degrees. Timer motor winding has a series capacitor and must be tested as such. Watch out for stalled or slow running motors that look OK. PS. : QUICK TEST - The timer can be turned with a screw driver through a service access hole. With the back - of - freezer plate off turn timer till it clicks and you hear compressor turn off, this is the defrost cycle (7-10min). Use it to see if the heater is getting hot.
The oven is more likely just a coincidence. All frost-free refrigerator-freezers have a thing in the system called a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the coils to chill the inside of the box. The Defrost timer in all boxes fails eventually from old age. When that happens, the coils frost over until they become pretty much just a solid block of ice. Most timers are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille under the door. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is running, give the shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor will stop. Give the fridge an hour to defrost the coils, and check it to see if it took off running. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a while. If this is the case, the unit will chill, and buy you some time to get it fixed. If the timer does not run, you can repeat the process daily until you get a replacement timer. If the unit does not chill, there is some other problem either with the defrost heater coils, or the sealed system. If this seems to be the case, make sure the condenser coils under the unit are not obscured with accumulated dust/dirt and that they have airflow from the fan behind them. For heater or sealed system repairs, you should call a servicer.
The defrost systems is:
218169802 HEATER-DEFROST 5303917954 THERMOSTAT-DEFROST 5303917954 TIMER-DEFROST
Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
Defrost the freezer. Door being ajar allows moisture to build on the freezer coil and stops air circulation. In frost free units this condition should clear itself after about 8-12 hours max. Locating and advancing the timer by rotating the clutch head screw clockwise slowly until you hear one click. This will start the automatic defrost manually.