Start switch blew and then my wife God bless her, when taking the top off didn't unplug it, and she let the hot wire touch metel and blew the circuit breaker. I replaced it AND the Start switch. There is still no current to the start switch as it did not work and I checked it with a voltage meter. What else could it be? Is there a fuse downline? Thanks for your help.
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Re: Roper EL5030V Electric Dryer
Yes there are two, one is on the blower housing a small white on with two blue wires connected to it, the other is on the element housing at the left top it has 2 red wires connected to it
both of these if good will read contunity.
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Start buttons seldom fail, but door switches fail often.
Have someone good at this open the lid and bypass the door switch, it should start fine.
Door switches can be bought at Amazon or "Sears Parts Direct" or e-bay.
God bless your efforts.
the only way that machine is hot is by two alternatives:
se the diagram a) The contacts L/H is closed all the time, they are NOT open, this close one side of the heating element b) The centrifugal switch of the motor is defective, remain closed all the time and NOT open, this close one side of the heating element.
either your heating coil is damaged or you have a bad resistor in the back of the panel ...any tech can take a look and tell...the resistors run about 20.00 the coils on the other hand may turn out to be as high as 200.00 plus labor..hopefully it is the resistor..GOD bless
Check your 220 outlet for voltage. 115 won't do. Then remove back
and check cutoff (hi-limit) Safety switch usually at the top
of the element. This safety switch is very small about the size of
a marble. If you don.t know how to Ohm it then remove the
two plug in wires and attach them together. Then it should start.
Take the safety to an appliance parts house and get a new on,install it and that should do it. You should also replace the
thermostat at the bottom of the element (comes in the new package),Too to prevent a reoccurrence.
There is a thermal fuse located on the blower housing. It is small white plastic with 2 wires attached to it. This is usually the cause. If not this the door switch may be bad. Open the door and check to make sure you hear a click when pushing the small lever for the door switch.
first make sure you 220 going to you dryer.next you nead to unplug the dryer.next you nead to remove the vent hose.next you nead to remove the back panal and power cord cover.on tge lower left side you will see a white plastic switch with two blue wires going to it.this is the thermal switch.if you use a meter and the switch is open tha you nead to replace this switch.part#3392519
check the upper and lower limit switches on the heating duct. they act like fuses and and pop if the go bad. to check. first unplug dryer then remove back panel. the heat tube should be on the right and have two disc looking things with two wires going to them. check top one first. pull wires off and withjumper wire connect the two wires together. now plug dryer in and check to see if it heats. if not check the lower one. do not run dryer for longer then i takes to see if coils heat up. if still no heat then u need to pull heating element off and check for an open in the coil.
wp only as one coil if hot then its working.99 out of 100 will be house venting.dry load with out vent[you wont hurt a thing]if still bad the air out put should be strong ,you may need to clean out all dryer air ways.you can do it .God bless tom
john there is only one heating element.ither it works or it dosent.when acustomer complains of low heat or long dry times 99out of100 its the venting or the dryer is blocked with lint.remove the dryer from the venting and try a load.if better clean house venting.you .........if not better you should have a great air flow leaving the dryer so if not drying well with venting off.take dryer apart a clean all araes that air is moving,where lint can block that flow.god bless .tom