Experienced this problem with Evaporator coil icing up (coil is located inside back wall of the freezer compartment; the ice/frost was visibly blocking the series of louvers or slots along the bottom of the freezer back wall. I think the power outage caused partial melting of an already somewhat iced coil, but when the power was restored the water on the coil just froze solid. When these slots become obstructed the Refrigerator will not cool to its proper 36-40 deg.F temperature and the compressor motor runs frequently and the noise level is louder than usual. SOLUTION: fastest and safest way to Defrost this iced up coil is: (1) turn off 120V power / unplug refrigerator from the outlet; (2) remove all food to another refrigerator / freezer and take out ice cube tray & flip icemaker bail wire to its up (off) position - but leave top freezer basket in-place; (3) remove Bottom freezer basket (which should lift up and out; (4) move refrigerator away from wall - and carefully unscrew and remove white-painted, rectangular metal panel at bottom in the back....... you will see a white plastic water tray below a small fan with black plastic blades...... have a 3x5 cellulose sponge and bucket handy...... (5) open freezer door all the way and set a 21-inch box fan on the floor in the opening or area where the Bottom freezer basket was removed... put a single towel on floor under the box fan if there is significant frost on the bottom of the freezer compartment (there should not normally be any); (5) turn the fan to "Medium" speed with air flow pointing toward the freezer... you will be amazed at how much faster this works than pans of hot water or hair dryers (the latter is potentially damaging and dangerous); (6) with a flashlight you should soon see the water drip-drip-dripping from a spot at the center and bottom of the Evaporator coil - where it goes down a white tube and into the white plastic pan beneath the small fan you saw in Step #4; after awhile (maybe 20 minutes) check the white plastic tray in the back - which will be full of water (sponge it out)... continue defrosting with the 21-inch box fan... check the plastic tray again - and sponge out the excess water. A completely iced-up coil will probably fill the plastic tray three times. Eventually the water will stop dripping - which means the Evaporator coil is completely defrosted. There may be some water that gets onto the floor under the left side of the refrigerator which you will have to wipe up. Reattach the metal panel and reinstall the Bottom freezer basket and ice tray. This process takes long enough that you can clean the inside of the refrigerator while you're at it.
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This freezer is not frost free. Being an upright limiting the amount and frequency of opening the door will reduce the build up of ice. Ice is expected and depending on humidity and quality of seal around door affects the amount of ice.
Using a thin ribbon check the seal integrity around the door. Confirm nothing is prohibiting the full closure of the door.
Adjust door if necessary. Replace seal if defective. Freeze open unsealed items in a frost free freezer before locating frozen food in this unit.
These units are likely located in the garage where the humidity is high. If used only as needed planning transfer between this and the kitchen unit frost can be minimized.
Being a conventional freezer not frost free freezer burn is less likely and frozen food will not dry out as quickly. Confirm that the freezer maintains about 0 degree F.
This unit is likely more efficient and will maintain the food frozen longer in the event of power outage.
the good news is that the fridge is not likely doing this because you're female, and your description of what has happened with power outages sounds like that's very likely the culprit - a fair amount of melted water dripping, then power comes on and freezes water in the drain.
I don't know your specific model, or if you know where the drain is. it's likely down in the bottom of the freezer compartment. If you remove the lower drawer, or unpack the lowest area, the floor will likely slope toward either an overt hole, or to a slit/hole in the back. If there is actual ice frozen on the lowest shelf/shell of the freezer, you'll want to get rid of it.
Easiest and safest route (as in least likelihood of damaging the freezer or hurting anyone)
Turn the fridge off. It won't be off long enough to risk much thawing, but you don't want the cooling coils actively pulling heat from what you do in the next step.
Hot, even scalding water. Especially if there is overt ice at the bottom, pour small dribbles in at the edge. Some will go across the ice and melt a bit of the bulk. Some will trickle down between the ice and the freezer floor. Do this a couple times, then see if you can pry up sections of the ice from the floor. Pull out as much as you can of the bulk ice. You'll likely want to get a couple of towels out since you'll likely get some water on the floor.
Once you've cleared overt ice from the freezer floor, pour some more hot/scalding water onto the plug, or into wherever the floor slopes to. Be patient and don't pour too big a volume. Ideally, after a few modest pours, you'll get water coming out from under the fridge. If the lower panel will pop loose, get in and use a towel to pick up as much of the water as you can. pour a bit more hot water through and verify it pours through to the floor (or possibly a catch pan).
If you get this far, dry the freezer floor as best you can with the towels, replace the drawer or any unpacked foods, close the freezer, and turn the fridge back on. It will probably be back to normal.
Depending how long the power was off you may have an ice blockage in the freezer. Normal cooling causes the freezer coils to build up frost and snow coating all over the coils. A normal defrost cycle melts that frost/snow off and keeps the coils clear so the fans can move air through the coils.During the power outage the frost may have started to melt wetting the snow. If the refrigerator then came on and re-froze the wet frost/snow into a solid block of ice, the normal defrost cycle would not be able to clear that solid ice out. So it may be blocking the air flow. Remove freezer back panel and see if there is ice back there. If yes--use something like a hair dryer to melt everything out until it is completely clear. Make sure the fans are running also.
Empty everything into a few boxes, cover them with lots of blankets. If the unit is in an area that has a drain in the floor, then just hose it down with warm water. If it is a moveable unit, hand truck it out side and do the water thing out there.
DO NOT TRY TO PRY ICE OFF ANY TUBES OF ANY KIND. THEY ARE FAIRLY DELICATE AND DO NOT HANDLE BEING TWISTED WELL.
When your done, reload the unit and from now on, do not leave the door open so much, ice will build up much slower. I generally do mine every 3-4 years. I also keep a few one gallon jugs full of water near the freezer and when I take something about the same size out, I replace it with the number of gallon jugs needed to fill that vacancy.
What all that does it, it reduces the amount of MOIST AIR that can rush into the unit when it is opened, and the ice will accumulate much much slower, plus a side benefit is, if you have a power outage, your have a freezer full of product and frozen water. Great for parties. If you do have that power outage, cover the freezer with a ton of blankets and it will stay as hard as a rock for several days. DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR EXCEPT IN A EMERGENCY. PRESERVE YOUR SEALED AIR CHAMBER YOU HAVE CREATED INSIDE OF YOUR REFER/FREEZER.
That on/off arm...you should be able to move it and it will likely make a small click when the switch goes on or off. That arm controls the ice making. There is also a float, is it working freely? It has a switch too. Ultimately, the water is controlled by a solenoid valve. It may be defective. Many of these units are removable to test the switches with a multimeter. Turn off the water and remove to test. Some parts are available...some parts are by the unit only.