Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer
As soon as i turn on washer, it starts producing ticking noise (just like clock) for a while and later shut off automatically. I removed the back ocver to check the belt and its fine. It seems that there is some problem with the motor start-up or some thing else.
Would appreciate your help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: top load kenmore washer
Your problem could be a bad gear case assembly (transmission), bad clutch, or a bad motor coupling. The easiest to diagnose and repair is the motor coupling (it's also the least expensive). All, however, will require access to the inside of the machine. This can be accomplished by: FIRST, UNPLUGGING THE MACHINE 1. Remove the console. Depending in the model you have, the console can be removed by removing the two end caps by placing a flat screwdriver in a groove on the top rear and gently lifting up. The end caps should pop off, exposing a philips screw under each one. Remove the screws and the console should lift up and back. If the end caps are not removable, then you need to place a putty knife under the front corner on either side of the console to release the retaining clips holding it on. Once the clips are released the console should lift off. 2. Disconnect the lid switch connector (white plastic plug with three wires going to it). 3. Remove the two brass-colored clips under the console. These hold the case to the washer frame. Once removed, the case should come off. 4. Lift the washer lid and place one hand under the front rim. Lifting the back up first, pull the case towards you and slide off the frame. 5. Check the floor under the wash tub area, first. If you notice any pools, or dripping of oil, then your gear case is probably shot. Once they start to leak, they should be replaced. 6. Now, you will see a small plastic (white or gray) pump with two hoses coming from it. This is the drain pump. DO NOT take the hoses off. Remove the two retaining clips with a flat screwdriver. Remember how they go back on. There will be a keyed slot on the top and bottom that they must go back in. Leave the hoses attached, remove the pump from the drive motor shaft and push aside. 7. The driver motor is attached in the same manner as the drain pump. Except, the drive motor clips usually have screws holding them in place and are a bit larger. In addition, you will need to remove the wire harness connector. Be careful when removing the retaining clips as the drive motor is heavy. Behind the motor is the motor coupling. 8. The motor coupling consists of two plastic triangular shaped pieces with three forks on each one, connected by a round rubber bushing with holes in it. Typically the plastic forks break off, or the rubber bushing rips apart. Also, the center hole of the plastic pieces can round out to the point that they just spin on the shaft. The center hole should have two flat sides and should NOT be completely round. The coupling usually costs less than $10 to replace. The gear case and clutch are a little more difficult to replace and generally are for the more seasoned techs to handle. If you inspect your machine and find that the motor coupling is fine, then let me know and I'll try to give you pointers to further diagnose.
Posted on May 21, 2007
I try to restart, but my machine did not lock the door, then can not run as normal, what shoud i do to make them run again
Posted on Sep 29, 2007
Before you go crazy trying to solve the F2 code make sure the filter is clear. Disconnect the power cord, PLEASE. Remove the kick plate on the bottom front by removing the 3 screws below it. You will need a hex socket and extension or a torx screw driver. If there is water in the machine and it will not drain you will need a shop vac and some old towels to catch the water when you open the filter. Now, you will see the filter in front of you. Have the towels ready and vac turned on. Quickly unscrew the filter cap and stick the vac hose right in the filter to catch the water. Clean the filter cap. Did you find any socks, money or other debree ? If yes that may have been your problem. Put the filter back on and HAND tighten well. Test the machine. From now on empty all pockets before you do the laundry. You just saved yourself a big repair charge. Be proud of yourself.
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
if its less than 15 years old its a direct drive whirlpool, no belt, remove the cabinet, not the back panel. look up direct drive whirlpool washer cabinet removal on internet, and replace the coupler, most likely, if it drains.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
Actually I didn't need a solution. The unit would not start. It was like no power was coming in. The outlet was good and usually if there is a power failute the unit flashes PF. Well I walked by in a couple hours later and and touched the start button and it worked. Got two loads of wash in. It must
have a loose connection or a dirty connector, but I'll wait until it happens again
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
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