Question about Cooper Wiring Devices ACE6001V-K "ACE" ROTARY DIAL DIMMER

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I have a switch that does not have any connecting screws in it, only places to slide the wires into and they are held in place by brackets, I have 3, 3 wire cables coming in, and the new switch is totally different as it has 4 connecting screws plus ground, How do I connect my wires to the new switch?

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Sounds like you have bought a 3-way switch, this meets light can be operated at two locations. You need a single way switch, operates only at one point.

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Will not make ice


I have a Samsung RF265AABP model. I had the same problem on several occasions. One time the problem was a broken temperature sensor wire on the ice maker. The sensor assembly often gets snagged on the ice tray or scoop or something and falls down, making it more likely to snag, and prevents the ice maker from cycling when frozen. It is quite easy to remove the ice maker once you get the drawer removed from the slides. It is held in place by two plastic clips located near the back of the slides. Pop the clips out, and then lift the drawer out. Pull the front plastic cover off the ice maker, then remove the two screws holding it to the top of the freezer compartment. Slide the icemaker assembly forward about 1/2 inch and it will drop down. Unplug the wiring connector and the ice maker assembly will drop right out. The temperature sensor is located in a flexible rubber like unit that holds the sensor against the plastic water tray. This whole assembly often falls out, and may be found mixed in with the ice.

I fabricated an aluminum bracket from angle stock to hold the temperature sensor assembly in place, and used a small tie wrap to hold the wire to the bracket, up and out of the way after soldering the broken wire of course. The tie wrap is not shown in the photos below. I drilled and countersunk two holes for the 4-40 screws holding the aluminum bracket. The temperature sensor is not shown in the photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses over to the left in front of the aluminum bracket.


7e70ad6b-5809-485d-98c2-6d16680477ee.jpg
Aluminum bracket holding sensor in place.

df1ad498-723b-4372-88d9-3b8d38cb844a.jpg
Ice maker assembly showing screws holding it to freezer. It is upside down in this photo.

Sep 23, 2013 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

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Repair job continued


7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable
color-wheel-cover.jpg
Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
color-wheel-wires.jpg 8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
cover-removal.jpg 9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
color-wheel.jpg 10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on it’s track, so again, don’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention don’t force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
13. Put the power cable in it’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

1 Answer

Rf265abwp display shows 4 8's in display last on


The broken wires at the ice maker can cause that problem. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




061e4783-1c25-4f1d-9ae3-fc2f1e29b9a4.jpg
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

e84cf515-0707-4dc4-863a-6c1b7a2e28aa.jpg

Aluminum bracket and screws


570362f6-f370-4527-bd59-610b43a85f60.jpg

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Sep 21, 2013 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker stopped making ice


Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




061e4783-1c25-4f1d-9ae3-fc2f1e29b9a4.jpg
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

e84cf515-0707-4dc4-863a-6c1b7a2e28aa.jpg

Aluminum bracket and screws


570362f6-f370-4527-bd59-610b43a85f60.jpg

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Sep 15, 2013 | Samsung RF263AERS (258 cu ft) Bottom...

1 Answer

Icemaker stopped


Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




061e4783-1c25-4f1d-9ae3-fc2f1e29b9a4.jpg
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

e84cf515-0707-4dc4-863a-6c1b7a2e28aa.jpg

Aluminum bracket and screws


570362f6-f370-4527-bd59-610b43a85f60.jpg

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Sep 13, 2013 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

88 88 fault on Samsung rf265abwp


Broken wires at the ice maker can cause that problem. It could be another temperature sensor as well of course. Check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




z
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

2q==

Aluminum bracket and screws


z

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).


Sep 12, 2013 | Samsung RF265ABWP (25.8 cu. ft.) Bottom...

1 Answer

Samsung RSG257AABP stopped making ice. What to check before buying a new ice maker?


Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




z
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

2q==

Aluminum bracket and screws


z

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).


Sep 05, 2013 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker not making Ice.


Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




z
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

2q==

Aluminum bracket and screws


z

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).


Aug 18, 2013 | Samsung RS2630WW Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Model RS267TDWP/XA. Not making ice


Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. On my model RF265AABP, I check the digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.




z
Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

2q==

Aluminum bracket and screws


z

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).


Aug 11, 2013 | Samsung RF265AA Bottom Freezer French Door...

1 Answer

Am using toshiba satellite L505-10w my keyboard is not working so how can i get solution


So your Toshiba laptop keyboard isn't working like it should? Whether your keyboard problem resulted from liquid spill, a hard bump, or you simply wore it out, you don't have to worry about investing in a new laptop, you can fix your keyboard problems with a simple swap. The good news is that fixing a Toshiba keyboard does not take much technical skill. In fact, Toshiba keyboards are among the easiest laptops to repair.

1.Remove the bezel just above the keyboard. You will notice a tin strip of plastic located just above the keyboard. This strip is called the keyboard bezel and you remove it by gently prying the edge up with your small standard screwdriver. Work your way across the bezel lifting it as you go. The bezel is a snap in unit so be sure to be gentle, as you work your way across.
2.Remove the keyboard screws. With the bezel removed, you will find three or four screws at the top of the keyboard. Using your small Philips head screw driver, remove these screws and place them in a safe spot where you will not lose them.
3.Remove the keyboard. With the screws removed, gently lift the keyboard from top to bottom. You will notice a ribbon of wires connected from the keyboard to the laptop. Lean the keyboard forward so that you can access the ribbon wire connection.
4.Remove the ribbon wire. Take your standard screw driver and gently push up the bracket locks on both sides of the ribbon wire socket. These bracket locks slide up slightly as you push to release the wire.
5.Plug in the replacement keyboard. Just as you removed the old keyboard, you will now push the ribbon wire from you replacement into the ribbon socket. With the small screw driver, push the brackets back into place to secure the ribbon.
6.Screw the replacement keyboard back into place. Using one screw, attach the keyboard. With the keyboard held into place by the single screw, start the computer and test the replacement keyboard. Once tested, replace the remaining screws.
7.Insert the bezel above the keyboard. With the keyboard now secured by all of the screws, place the bezel back over its opening and snap it back into place. Start at one end and work your way across.

I hope you find it very helpful. Thank you for using fixya.com

Aug 19, 2011 | Toshiba Satellite A105 Notebook

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