Question about Sharp CV10NH Air Conditioner

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I have a Sharp CV10NH Portable Air Conditioner with the same problem as posted by gtkermit on Jun 08, 2010: works fine for a few minutes then compressor turns off and fan continues for a few minutes then compressor kicks in again and cools for a few minutes (cycles about every 5 minutes perhaps.) I have followed all suggestions on page 30 of the manual (as well as the different options for venting, etc.) ms-shop suggested that the thermostat needs to be replaced. How do i do this? Thank you!

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  • LNVMiami Jul 09, 2010

    Thank you for your help! I will first try the alternate solutions before I change out the thermostat.
    Thank you very much!!



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The problem could be the thermostat, and any of the following compressor cycling for every few minutes could be over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test.

Nevertheless, this is the procedure to replace the thermostat on your unit.

  • Get the tools together that you will need to do a proper thermostat installation. You will need:
    • A small straight-slot (or flathead) screw driver
    • A small Phillips screw driver
    • A pair of needle nose pliers
    • A utility knife or wire strippers (for small wire)
    • Plastic wall anchors (sometimes provided with the thermostat)
    • A drill with a bit to make the holes for the plastic wall anchors
    • A small level
    • Two pencils or pens
    • A small paper bag and some masking tape (tape the bag below the area where the thermostat is so that any trash or dust will fall into the bag and not onto the floor)
    • Some touch up paint
    • Clean hands (don't do a great job changing the thermostat and leave all those prints all over the wall)
    • Plenty of light
  • Turn the power off to the air conditioning and heating unit at the circuit breaker or the emergency cutoff switch. This should kill any power going to the thermostat. After doing that make sure the power is off by turning the thermostat to the on position and going to the unit to make sure it is not on. Not all circuit breakers are labeled correctly and not all emergency switches are hooked up. Just make double sure that you have killed power to the unit not only for your safety but also to keep from blowing the transformer. I get calls all the time to replace transformers because the homeowner changed the thermostat and didn't kill the power. They hooked everything up correctly but during the process they touched the wrong wires together and blew the transformer which powers the HVAC control circuit including the thermostat.
  • Pull the cover off the front of the thermostat. If it is a mechanical thermostat there should be a little adjuster tab in the center of it. This is your heat anticipator. It should have numbers ranging from 1.5 to .1. Take note of this setting and remember to set the new thermostat to this same setting if you are replacing a mechanical thermostat with another mechanical thermostat. You probably want to do this now before you proceed further. If you are replacing a mechanical thermostat with a digital thermostat, the digital thermostat should set itself automatically. If not read the instructions on the new thermostat for instructions on how to set the anticipator. This is very important. An improperly set anticipator will cause your furnace or heater to run improperly. The thermostat is also equipped with a cooling anticipator. Cooling anticipators are often on the sub-base and are non-adjustable.
  • Unscrew the thermostat from the sub-base. Take note of each wire. The following list should match the wires and terminals on your thermostat.
    • Red to the thermostat RH or thermostat RC terminal with a jumper wire between thermostat RH and thermostat RC. Or Red to the thermostat R terminal which is shared with both the heating and cooling. It has an internal jumper built in to the sub-base. The red wire is the source hot wire from the transformer. All other wires, except the common wire, controls a specific relay or contactor that energizes the fan, heating, or cooling depending on the selection. The following is the common wiring colors but your system may not be common and different colors could have been used.
    • Green to the thermostat G terminal. This is the color that controls the fan or the relay that control of the blower.
    • Yellow to the thermostat Y terminal. This is for control of the air conditioning.
    • White to the thermostat W terminal. This is for control of the heating.
  • These are the four wires that you need to control the heat, cooling and the blower or fan. If the colors of the wires do not match the colors described here make sure you mark the wires with masking tape. If there are more wires that are not hooked up don't worry. This is common. Thermostat wire comes in many different varieties and the contractor who installed the system probably used 5 wire or 8 wire thermostat wire. They used what they needed and simply twisted or cut the other wires off.
  • Remove the wires from the terminals on the sub-base. The power should be off so you shouldn't have to worry about being shocked. Be careful not to let the wires fall back into the wall. Sometimes there is just enough wire to reach the terminals and that's it. Try pulling the wires a bit to see if there is more wire behind the wall. Most of the time there is some slack and you can pull the wire out more. Unscrew the sub-base from the wall while holding the wires. When you get the sub-base off wrap the wires around the pencil or pen. This will keep the wires from falling back into the wall.
  • Get the new sub-base and compare it to the old one. Hold it up to the wall in the position you want it. Is the old paint that was covered by the old sub-base going to be covered by the new sub-base? If any of the old paint is going to show you may want to make some touch ups now. After finishing with that, put the new sub-base back on the wall in the position you want it. Make sure it is as level as possible. You can use a level to do this. (This is very important especially for mechanical thermostats. It must be level or the mercury switch will not keep the proper temperature settings in the house. Make sure it is level.) Mark the new holes through the sub-base where the screws will go into the wall to fasten the sub-base.
  • It is important in this step to have the proper drill bit size for the size of wall anchors you have. Some wall anchor kits come with a bit in them. I recommend the wall anchor kits with the bits in them because it is the perfect size drill bit for the anchors. The bit should be slightly smaller than the anchor. If the bit is bigger the wall anchor will not hold and the possibility exists that the thermostat will fall off the wall. Drill the mounting holes you made for mounting the sub-base. Insert the wall anchors and push them hard with your thumb. Approximately 1/16th of an inch on the lip of the anchor will remain sticking out of the hole. If it is more than that use the ****-end of the screw driver and push it in until just the lip of the anchor remains visible.
  • Undo the wires from the pencil or pen and run them through the center of the sub-base. Insert the screws and screw them only snug tight. Get the level and make sure the sub-base is level. When you are sure that it is level, tighten the screws. Be careful not to allow the sub-base to move when you are tightening the screws.
  • Using the color code of the wires (or if they didn't match, the color markings you made with masking tape), attach each wire to their proper terminal. Some people like to loop the wire around the terminal screws. This is not necessary. What is necessary is that the wires are attached to the terminals and they are tight. Additionally, make sure that none of the bare wire is touching anything except the terminal. Once the wires are attached you are almost finished completing the task of installing the thermostat. The hard part is over!
  • Attach the thermostat to the sub-base. The screws for this are built in the thermostat. Tighten these screws and check to make sure the heat anticipator is set to the same setting as the old anticipator setting.
  • Attach the front cover to the thermostat and restore power. Start and check the heating, air conditioning, and with the heating and air conditioning off, the fan only sequence. All systems should be working properly at this time (if you did the task properly) you are the proud owner of a brand new, properly installed thermostat.
Take care.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010


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