Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Machine won't spin

Does everything right but it doesn't spin.
I suspect a belt is gone.
If so, where can I find instructions for replacing the belt.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

Based on the 22422 stock number provided, your washer doesn't have a belt. It appears to be a basic top load, direct drive washer:


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest)


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.



Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
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6_19_2012_1_11_58_am.gif

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INSTRUCTION BELOW
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Hello there and welcome to fixya
there are several things that you will need to check first ok please verrify the following
It doesn't pump or spin
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It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

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Here are names of tools and instruction below to solve theproblem
  • Screwdrivers,Flashlight,Voltmeter,Wrenches,Bucket,Rags or mop
There are several reasons that a washing machine won't drainor spin. The cause could be something as easy as a clog or something difficultthat will need a licensed repairman. Start with the simplest possible cause andwork down to the more difficult causes. ·1A washing machine won't spin if the water can't drain. Check hoses for anykinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks,try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can't be straighten sufficiently,replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can bedone by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs orrunning a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the ragsand bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected.Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place. The washer shoulddrain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem. ·2 If the washer still won't drain or spin, checkto see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is notclicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the waydown. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clickingsound, then the switch may need to be replaced. Follow manufacturer's directionsfor replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually checkfor signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place. ·3 Loose or broken belts could also prevent awashing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the walland, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using theflashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken orloose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone whohas replaced belts on a car, lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be ableto accomplish the task. ·4 Another possibility for a washing machine tonot spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, checkthe pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If thewasher is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pumpis running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to removethe pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one. Once the pump isreplaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin. ·5 If all of the above steps fail to produce awashing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professionalrepairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washerand push it back against the wall.Thanks for using fixya.

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hello there and welcome to fixya
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
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1 Answer

My washer wont spin


Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
This can be a rather easy fix or it can be a nightmare so i will post everything i have here for you to check ok
It doesn't spin It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

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1 Answer

Frididaire washer error 10 Washer will take in water but doesn't spin or complete cycle. Doesn't let water out.


Hello.

When Washing Machines electronic control has detected a condition then it indicate by showinh error code which needs to check. When you see a code, follow these steps to solve the problem.

However, there are several reasons that a washing machine won't drain or spin. The cause could be something as easy as a clog or something difficult that will need a licensed repairman. Start with the simplest possible cause and work down to the more difficult causes.

Challenging Instructions And Things You'll Need:

· Screwdriver,Flashlight,Voltmeter,Wrenches,Bucket,Rags or mop.

  1. A washing machine won't spin if the water can't drain. Check hoses for any kinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks, try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can't be straighten sufficiently, replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can be done by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs or running a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the rags and bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected. Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place. The washer should drain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem.
  2. If the washer still won't drain or spin, check to see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is not clicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the way down. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clicking sound, then the switch may need to be replaced. Follow manufacturer's directions for replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually check for signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place.
  3. Loose or broken belts could also prevent a washing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the wall and, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using the flashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken or loose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone who has replaced belts on a car , lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be able to accomplish the task.
  4. Another possibility for a washing machine to not spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, check the pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If the washer is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pump is running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to remove the pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one. Once the pump is replaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin.
  5. If all of the above steps fail to produce a washing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professional repairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washer and push it back against the wall.

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