Question about Friedrich WY10B33 Air Conditioner
Doesn't cool. Fan comes on but doesn't kick into cooling mode
Friedrich publishes all of its manuals, including parts and the service manuals. See below for links:
Serivce Manual 2008-09 Models
Service Manual 2007 Models
Service Manual 2006 Models
Service Manual 2010 Models
Parts Manual Looks like 2009 / 2010 Models per serial number range
Parts Manual 2006 Models
Parts Manual 2007 Models
Owners Manual All Years
You can find the year model by looking at the serial number. The 2nd letter is the year code. F=2006 G=2007 H=2008 J=2009 K=2010 (there is no "i")
Once you know the year, download the appropriate service manual.
There are troubleshooting guides in the manual that will help you isolate the failed part. You will need a multimeter though in order to check for continuity between switch positions.
I would take a close look at the defrost thermostat first. It is the one component that can disable the compressor in all modes, heating or cooling. It works by sensing the temperature of the evaporator, and if too low, it turns the compressor off, and kicks on a heater. When temperature rises, it turns off the heater and compressor is turned back on. if the defrost t-stat is not able to sense temperature correctly, it may keep the compressor disabled.
Good Luck, post back your results and don't forget to rate!
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
NGFAM! Happy to assist you!
Sounds like the freon is low therefore it will not or stay on!
My words alone can not help you fix the unit!
You need service!
Let me know how it goes??
Please give me a good rating here at fixya.com before you sign off!
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING HERE AT FIXYA.COM BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF
Posted on Aug 29, 2008
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner,
the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power.
If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is
getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be
used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat. If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem. Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
The next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil. This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working, the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil. A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
As you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic way.
There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.
Posted on Jun 07, 2011
to me it sounds like filter are dirty, need to be cleaned or replaced, home systems, packaged or otherwise are hermetically sealed and should not need freon recharge. Always start with airflow and/or unit being set too low. An AC unit of any type will build ice if a) the filter is plugged up and can't move enough air, b) it has been run without the filter, clogging the coil, again, not moving enough air, c) setting an AC unit below 68 degrees F will almost ALWAYS cause icing, and d) running a standard AC when it's warm inside and cold outside (unless equipped for "low-ambient operation"). When in doubt, a bit of maintenance(thorough cleaning) by someone with AC skills can cure a b, common sense will cure c d.
Posted on Jun 23, 2011
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