Question about Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

2 Answers

Oven does not heat in any function

Oven stopped working after self cleaning cycle was used. We have checked circuit breakers are Okay. The oven control panel appears to be working normally, provides settings and timer for bake and other functions, but oven does not heat. Control lock is not engaged and Delay Timer is not engaged. Although the heat element appears to be properly installed, I suspect that it has either become disconnected or failed electrically.

Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • jensengene Jul 08, 2010

    I have removed the oven heating element and disconnected the two wires to that element. I placed an AC voltmeter across the two wires to the element and turned the oven to Bake. The AC voltage to the oven heating element then cycles at about 15 second intervals through three levels; 95.5 volts, 8.5 volts and 000.0 volts. An Ohm test of the heating element when disconnected from the oven wiring is steady at 28.5 Ohms.

  • jensengene Jul 08, 2010

    I appreciate the information, especially on the projected ohm values and parts to replace. What i need now is a source for parts and replacement procedure instructions.

  • jensengene Jul 09, 2010

    Dear Sir,



    Our oven is a Whirlpool Model RBS275PDQ6 with serial number XH1801143



    Thank you for your timely assistance.

×

Ad

2 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. This is quite common in most self clean ovens of this nature. During a self cleaning cycle, your oven reaches temperature up to 935 degrees. This is a very vulnerable situation and this is also when most temperature sensor fail, if this option is used regularly. Once the temperature monitor fails, the internal temperature will reach an over temperature state(1000 degrees F) that will literally weld the relay contacts on the rear of the main control board. This will cause the unit to stop working, due to the damage that has occurred to the main board. It may seem to be normal, but as you can see, you have no control over your baking elements, heating cycle and locking mechanism. The elements are fine, but the relays that control them are damaged, due to the high overheating issue that has occurred, due to a failed sensor during the self cleaning process.

The necessary actions are to replace the main control board and the oven temperature sensor. If you need confirmation, simply, test the elements for proper continuity. Normal elements of this nature should show some form of continuity(15-124 ohms). The tempreture sensor should be in the range of(1100 ohms when at room temperature). If the elements and sensor test out ok, only replace the main control board(EOC/ERC/PCB).

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • jensengene Jul 08, 2010

    The oven heating element ohm checks at 28 ohms, I can hear a clicking noise when the oven heating element circut voltage switches between 95 volts, 8 volts and 0 volts at about 15 second intervals.

    How do I find the part numbers that i need to replace? How do I find a parts supplier and maintenance instructions for replacing the main control panel and the oven?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 08, 2010

    In order to direct you to the appropriate parts depot, I will need your entire model number. This will allow me to post the correct part numbers and necessary exploded diagram, as well. These diagrams will help guide you through the disassembling process. Please post this much needed information, asap.





  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 09, 2010

    Hi. I have some good news and bad news, concerning this unit. First the good news; This part is available, but the original board has been discontinued by the original manufacture. The substitution board that has been put in its place is now available. Now the bad news; The substitution board can only be installed by a certified technician, due to the fact that, the sub board can only be purchased by a technician. The manufactures of this sub board and the sellers have been directed to only sell this replacement board to certified technicians, unfortunately. With that said; the original part number will be 4452240. The new substitution board part number will be RFR-CGI.Click on the new part number to be directed to the purchase page for further directions on setting an appointment up for the visiting technician to come out to install the new sub board. Only a certified tech can order you board. They will not sell this board to a non- technician.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 09, 2010


    • You can also simply call 1-800-4MY-HOME to set up a home service call to achieve this as well. be sure to have the model number and part number available during your call.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 09, 2010

    Additionally, if your temp sensor has tested outside the operational room temperature range, you can replace this yourself. This is simply a 4 inch long probe that is mounted inside the oven area. It will be mounted on the rear of the inside oven compartment. There are two screws that hold this device.

    The thermostat will be quite harder to access. You will need to remove the entire oven from the cabinet to access this device. the rear panel will need to be removed, and the thermostat will be mounted just to the inside of the rear panel. It is oval in design and can be tested as well. Click here to view an exploded diagram of the the units body structure. The temp sensor will be labeled number 29 on the diagram provided. The thermostat will be labeled number 37. Thermostat part number will be 9759243 and the temp sensor part number will be 4451665.



    • NOTE_ it is recommended to replace both devices if one fails the test. test the sensor first. if the sensor fails its respective test, replace both monitoring devices.

×

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 6,993 Answers

Hello,

i t should be an electric wiring fault. maybe a wire as melted. open the oven to check the wiring. make sure all wiring is intact.

God luck.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

  • jensengene Jul 08, 2010

    The only wiring I am aware to check is that of the heating element and it installs with two metal screws at the back of the oven and appears to be stuck in place with some soft white sealant material. How do I check the wiring other than to force the heat element removal?

×

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

No heat in oven


Check outlet voltage, a 240v circuit breaker can trip halfway and not be visibly tripped when looking at the breaker panel... 120v will operate the oven controls, but will not heat the elements...

Apr 23, 2016 | Ovens

1 Answer

Scholtes FE46 and the door is locked. Also no clock/timer lights. Temp/function and oven work but is locked even though completely cold.


Here are a couple of things to try:
  1. Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
  2. Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
Read through the following for mire info:
Appliance411 FAQ After self clean range oven door won open

Mar 25, 2016 | Ovens

2 Answers

Everything works but oven will not heat. It stop right after a self cleaning. What could it be.


The thermostat in the back of the oven is out. You'll need to remove the oven and remove sheet metal from the back to get to that thermostat. Part number 9759243
Don't forget to flip circuit breaker off before removing the oven.
And, yeah, if the thermostat is out, usually it means that there may be a problem with the oven blower or the oven is installed incorrectly.

Jun 02, 2010 | Whirlpool GBS307PRS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

KitchenAidKEBS107: NO HEAT after power failure during self clean


Thermostat on the back needs replacement. The problem is caused by overheating the oven. Improper installation or inadequate blower. Depending on the model, the oven might need a new blower in addition to the thermostat. Try calling KitchenAid to find out if the oven needs that blower and get the part number for the thermostat, they might have replaced it with the one with higher temperature rating.

Nov 26, 2009 | KitchenAid KEBS177 Electric Single Oven

3 Answers

I cant get my self cleaning oven to unlock... what do I do, I cant find my manual


Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
or
Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
If these procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and moved manually to open the door.
Some model ovens require the oven door to be manually unlatched before the controls are returned to the OFF position or else the door may not be able to be unlocked. Check the owner's manual for proper operating procedures.

Oct 10, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

2 Answers

The self-cleaning mode will not stop on my Kenmore oven


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&&$%%

Aug 14, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

Circuitry may have gotten tripped during clean cycle. Oven will open and electronics work but neither element will heat.


baked control module for heating elements. if you have a volt meter, check for power when oven on, if no juice its the control element, if you do get juice then its the elements

May 28, 2009 | Whirlpool GBS277PRS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

Display went blank during the self cleaning cycle


Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

uiitu

Apr 29, 2009 | GE JTP28 Electric Double Oven

3 Answers

After usung the self cleaning function the oven no longer works


Check for correct voltage at plug, in the mean time the oven will be disconnected from any power, see if it resets with no power for 10 minutes

Nov 13, 2008 | Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Oven


I used the self cleaning mode for 2 hours and the error f2 keeps flashing and beeping, I did try to power off with the breaker and left it off for about a half hour and it still continues to beep and flash f2, what should I do?

Aug 07, 2008 | Ovens

Not finding what you are looking for?
Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven Logo

167 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Whirlpool Ovens Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

 Fix Your Board
Fix Your Board

Level 3 Expert

310 Answers

ashburton

Level 3 Expert

417 Answers

Are you a Whirlpool Oven Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...