Oven stopped working after self cleaning cycle was used. We have checked circuit breakers are Okay. The oven control panel appears to be working normally, provides settings and timer for bake and other functions, but oven does not heat. Control lock is not engaged and Delay Timer is not engaged. Although the heat element appears to be properly installed, I suspect that it has either become disconnected or failed electrically.
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Re: Oven does not heat in any function
HI. This is quite common in most self clean ovens of this nature. During a self cleaning cycle, your oven reaches temperature up to 935 degrees. This is a very vulnerable situation and this is also when most temperature sensor fail, if this option is used regularly. Once the temperature monitor fails, the internal temperature will reach an over temperature state(1000 degrees F) that will literally weld the relay contacts on the rear of the main control board. This will cause the unit to stop working, due to the damage that has occurred to the main board. It may seem to be normal, but as you can see, you have no control over your baking elements, heating cycle and locking mechanism. The elements are fine, but the relays that control them are damaged, due to the high overheating issue that has occurred, due to a failed sensor during the self cleaning process.
The necessary actions are to replace the main control board and the oven temperature sensor. If you need confirmation, simply, test the elements for proper continuity. Normal elements of this nature should show some form of continuity(15-124 ohms). The tempreture sensor should be in the range of(1100 ohms when at room temperature). If the elements and sensor test out ok, only replace the main control board(EOC/ERC/PCB).
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Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
The thermostat in the back of the oven is out. You'll need to remove the oven and remove sheet metal from the back to get to that thermostat. Part number 9759243 Don't forget to flip circuit breaker off before removing the oven. And, yeah, if the thermostat is out, usually it means that there may be a problem with the oven blower or the oven is installed incorrectly.
Thermostat on the back needs replacement. The problem is caused by overheating the oven. Improper installation or inadequate blower. Depending on the model, the oven might need a new blower in addition to the thermostat. Try calling KitchenAid to find out if the oven needs that blower and get the part number for the thermostat, they might have replaced it with the one with higher temperature rating.
Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes.
Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently
try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door. or Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15
minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try
moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door. If these
procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and
moved manually to open the door. Some model
ovens require the oven door to be manually unlatched before the controls are
returned to the OFF position or else the door may not be able to be unlocked.
Check the owner's manual for proper operating procedures.
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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I used the self cleaning mode for 2 hours and the error f2 keeps flashing and beeping, I did try to power off with the breaker and left it off for about a half hour and it still continues to beep and flash f2, what should I do?