Actually while replacing the ventilation fan, the AC cable (ribbon type,1set consist 4cables and the other set consist 9cables) coming out from the main transformer (output) is accidently slip out from the slots holding both of the ribbon cable.These ribbon cables having AC and GND slots at the mother board.
The main input is 240Vac.
Can you assist me to install back to the correct slot for the ribbon cables.I have the picture and if you wants, later I will email it.
Thanking you in advance.
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Replace the motor ! Test the electrical circuit ! Don't know anything about automotive electrical circuit ? Go on youtube an check out video on basic electrical trouble shooting , Also Voltage drop testing a circuit . How to read a wiring diagram . Then go to http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams . Test the circuit . Do a current draw test on the blower motor . You need a amp meter to do this test .
please adjust the REED switch, TEST for open or faulty, clean it, and tight the plug or connector very well, see the diagram attached. 2) Tight the ribbon cable inside very well for keypads 3) replace batteries with the same types, same value, same polarity, and clean the contacts batteries.FULL charges. God bless you
Red or R is the "Hot leg" of the Transformers 24volt supply,
Common or C is the "Neutral leg" of the Transformers 24 volt supply;
and the side of power to which ALL the 24 volt control circuits
terminate to complete the circuit, example; Heat=W, Cool=Y, Fan=G.
Upon a call for heat a switch closes betwen the Red and White Thermostat terminals.
The stat sends the 24 volts to White or W for the heat circuit on W on the
furnaces LVTB low voltage terminal board.
Yellow or Y goes from Thermostat to furnace Y on LVTB, which is simply
a connecting point on its way to the AC units 24v contactor coil located outdoors.
It actually isnt even attached to the furnace many times as it serves no purpose there and simply
continues to the AC unit with the copper lineset that the AC unit feeds.
The remaing 24 volt Thermostat wire goes back to common on transformer to complete the Yellow
24 volt control circuit.
Green or G exits the Thermostat and connects to G on LVTB for the fan relays 24volt coil
and returns to Common to complete the Green 24 volt control circuit.
O is for a Heat pump reversing valves 24 volt solenoid, and return to Common as all 24v circuits must to terminate or complete the circuit.
Some parasitic type Termostats need the 24v power to run, some are battery, some are both.
This is an interesting problem. In the beginning of your statement you say that the "heater" does not turn on consistantly. My first couple of thoughts are, 1. What is your fuel source? 2. How is the furnace vented? (chimney, sidewall) With these questions answered we might be able to get to the bottom of the issue. But just for giggles lets continue to make observations. A "ventilation fan" does not really give enough information. There is a "powerventer" which allows you to vent an appliance out the side of a house. There are booster fans, which are sometimes installed in long lengths of "vent" pipes to help the chimney maintain a proper draft, and on gas appliances (newer) there is a inducer motor, which pushes the gases out of the residence. The way that the powerventer is wired is in a way that will not allow the burner to fire unless it first proves that venter is creating a draft. Booster fans usually are just wired in parallel with the burner circuit, and will run anytime there is a call for heat. Inducer motors (on gas furnaces only) will not cause this issue. With all this being said, I would find it highly unlikely that the problem is/was both in the board and the draft. If in fact you are pulling such a strong draft that you are "sucking" the flame out, then I don't think you need the "ventilation" fan. Hope this helps
The F7 error code on your oven indicates the touch pad has failed. To repair it you will need to replace the touch pad which is listed as a control panel w/keypad in the parts diagram.
If you do the repair yourself, disconnect the power to the oven. Take the 3 screws out above the door that hold the control panel on to the oven. Pull the control panel out at the bottom and lift it up, then pull out the top and drop it down so you can see the back side of the control panel, and you will see a ribbon connector going from the touchpad to the electronic oven control (ERC).
There is a latch holding the ribbon connector to the ERC, raise the latch to release and pull the ribbon out of the ERC.
Replace the part and reverse these instructions to replace the control panel.
Is your condensing unit located in a well ventilated area and have an ample space, atleast a foot, from the rooftop flooring? Just make a check that free flowing outside air properly ventilates the condensing unit specially on high ambient temperatures. Hope this would solve your problem
if the display did not lit and power indicator is flashing rapidly------you will have short circuit in speakers cables -----turn it off and remove short circuit cable-------or you have block in ventilation holes---------turn power off and leave it to cool down and remove anything block ventilation holes---and turn it on again after cooling---------another solution-------on screen display is set to off on system setup------turn it to on in system setup.