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I have a standard ice maker in my GE refrigerator. It is an older model, maybe 10 years. Sometimes it works perfectly, other times after the ice dumps out, the water will continue to flow after the tray is full and begin to overflow in to the ice bucket. It will then some times shut off after a few seconds or a minute or 2, other times I have to unplug the ice maker for it to stop.

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  • scott_jahnke Jul 08, 2010

    Pushing up the wire switch to shut off the ice maker does not stop the water from coming in. The unit must be physically unplugged. I'm trying to figure out if the control switch which rides the time cam inside the unit is bad or if the water valve is sticking on.

  • scott_jahnke Jul 08, 2010

    Thank you

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Sounds like you have some crud in the line somewhere. Shut the water off, remove the filter element, and blow air in the water dispenser. If that doesn't do it, remove the line after the shut off, and blow air in before the filter.
It may also be the problem with the valve,Might try replacing the washer or cartridge in the valve,or the solenoid valve it will fix the problem.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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  • Microwave Ovens Master
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Ok, this is for a GE refrigerator from 2000 or so. There is a metal wire lever that can be set up or down depending on how much ice is in the ice bucket. You can deactivate it by pushing it up.

Also, there is a website that if you feed your model number in, you can get replacement and do it yourself fix it parts for your ice maker based on your refrigerator model #:

http://www.partselect.com/GE-Ice-Maker-Parts.htm

Hope this helps!

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

  • scott_jahnke Jul 08, 2010

    Pushing up the wire switch to shut off the ice maker does not stop the water from coming in. The unit must be physically unplugged. I'm trying to figure out if the control switch which rides the time cam inside the unit is bad or if the water valve is sticking on.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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It could possibly be the touch pad, but since you mention that it runs longer when the exhaust fan is on, I would say your magnetron is heating up.

Say Guest, your "repairman" could have started it cooking, then disconnected the keypad while it was running. Bet he didn't, did he..? *grin*

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Here is a reply I've posted on this problem dozens of times here on FixYa:


Sadly, we hear of this over and over.

This is usually due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

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It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

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Details are in their bulletin at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_mw_mag_kit_bulletin.pdf

Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit. I just think the difference is that GE has stopped paying for the repairs.

The parts kit (that GE used to pay for) is part # WB27X10489 and is shown here: http://207.234.249.73/mwd/wb27x10489_ge_mag_stir_kit.jpg

(Your model may use a different kit - this is shown for illustration purposes only).

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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GE Customer Service is at http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/contact/

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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