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I have a jl audio 500-5
the 4 high channels work but the sub output doesnt and the low ohm light lights up when a sub is connected.....any ideas how to fix or replace what went bad
yes the sub ohms out at 4 ohms wich is correct ....yea his amp is complex i took the cover off to see if something was obvious after looking at it i just screwed the cover back on lolyes the sub ohms out at 4 ohms wich is correct ....yea his amp is complex i took the cover off to see if something was obvious after looking at it i just screwed the cover back on lol
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Assuming that you've confirmed that the speaker is in good working order and that the wiring isn't shorted in any way...
There are separate power supplies for the high and low amplifiers. It's possible that the one for the sub output has failed. If that's the case, the output transistors probably failed and that's what damaged the supply.
Generally, I'm willing to help people repair their amps but this is a large, complex amplifier and it should be repaired by a qualified technician.
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The thing about Jl audio amp is that you have to choose between using the sub output or the the rca output. In order to use the rca output you will have to switch a switch next to the gain level. And it should be label low/high voltage. If you want to use the sub output then leave it on low if you want to use the rca output then switch it to high. I hope that solve your problem
The JL Audio 500/1 outputs 500 watts RMS into a load from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Whether your subs have 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coils, they should be wired in series and the subs paralleled to the amp. The final load to the amp will be either 2 ohms or 4 ohms, both of which the amp can handle. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the final impedance will be either 0.5 ohm or 1 ohm, both too low for the amp.
You can wire each sub to a separate set of terminals or both to the same set. The terminals are connected internally. It doesn't matter which of the +'s or -'s you use.
The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.
Its the power transistors that would be affected by low voltage. It delivered till it finally gave up 'cos the output wattage to be generated at low voltage means more current flowing through the equipment. This high current will adversely affect all small solenoid valves & transistors and IC's. Even failure of one section of any IC is rarely detectable with the naked eye. It has to be thoroughly checked with a multi-meter to assess the damage correctly......sodeep
I would try running the subs in parallel. Pos to Pos Dual Voice, Neg to Neg Dual Voice. Then Run + to + stereo - to - stereo on both channels.
So you have + and - running to one channel and + and - running to the other channel.
Also your LPF filter could be set too high.
It sounds like the power supply failed. Generally when the supply fails in that amp, you have to replace all 8 of the power supply FETs and all 8 of the 47 ohm surface mount resistors. Many times, the supply fails because one or two of the output transistors have failed.
If you want to have JL repair it, you MUST go through an authorized JL dealer.
If you have a good local repair shop, they should be able to repair it.
Disconnect the speaker wires from the amplifier's terminal block. If the low ohm light still comes on with no speaker wires connected, the amplifier will need to be repaired.
If the light no longer comes on, check the speakers and the wiring.
You can connect them in a series/parallel configuration. Put two of them in series and then connect the last one in parallel across the two in series. This would give you an impeadance of around 2.7 ohms. Only do this if your amp is stable at 3 ohms or less. I am not familiar with the specs of your amp. If your amp is only 4 ohm stable you can not do this.
This would also give you half the power on the two subs in series as the power for the one that is parallel. The two in series would be sharing the total output signal, where-as the one in parallel would get the entire output signal from the amp.
if you were to connect a fourth sub woofer in this configuration it could give you a 4 ohm load, by adding the fourth sub in series with the single sub that is in parallel. or in other words, yu have two sets of 2 sub woofers each in series. That gives you two 8 ohm loads (two 4 ohm subs in series is 8 ohms). Then you take the two sets of subs and parallel them (two 8 ohm loads in parallel equals 4 ohms).
If i had a picture to show you it would make sense, two subs in series that are in parallel with two subs in series.
yes the sub ohms out at 4 ohms wich is correct ....yea his amp is complex i took the cover off to see if something was obvious after looking at it i just screwed the cover back on lol
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