Question about Whirlpool WED6200S Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool cabrio wed6200sw0 dryer runs, won't heat up. blows air, lint line is clear and hi limit thermostat and thermal cutoff okay (have continuity) at room temp

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Hi, If you have a gas dryerwhirlpool cabrio wed6200sw0 dryer runs, won't heat - 2_bing.gif.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

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Gas Dryer2_bing.gif not Working Gas Dryer2_bing.gif Not Heating
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whirlpool cabrio wed6200sw0 dryer runs, won't heat - 2_bing.gifour dryer2_bing.gif is electric2_bing.gif..
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heatman101

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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I have a cabrio steam dryer that does not heat but will turn. Have tried to chamge the thermostat and element and still does not heat. Help

Posted on Jul 24, 2011

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Electric dryer getting way too hot


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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Dec 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

5 Answers

Operating Thermostat Burnt out Twice


have you checked the venting ???? the heat could be backing up into the dryer causing it to burn out.?? Run a load with no vent on and see if it is ok..JUST a NOTE:the operation(cycling) stat the Hi limit Stat and the Thermal cutoff are all diffrent The Thermal cut off is located on the upper part of the heating element housing...The hi limit is on the bottom of the element by the terminals to the heating element.. the cycle stat is on the exsh. ducting I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same part

Jan 26, 2008 | Whirlpool LEQ8000JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

DRYER seems to blow a lot of fuses does one fuse run dryer and the other for heating element? dryer will run BUT not heat up


The typical reason several Thermal fuses(motor circuit) or Thermal cutoff (heat circuit) will go out is because or poor air flow so what needs to be checked it for lint build up in the filter housing below the lint filter and/or a chrushed or blocked venting from the back of dryer all the way to where it goes outside

Aug 26, 2011 | Whirlpool WED5300S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

MY DRYER WON'T HEAT.


This is usually caused by a blown thermal cut-off which blows and cuts power to the heating element due to the failure of the high limit-thermostat to cycle off and regulate the heating element temperature. Check the dryer for clogged lint screen and/or restricted vent system then replace both thermostats when either of them has failed. Both are located on the blower housing.

Click on the links below for the detailed troubleshooting of this dryer problem. Just follow the instructions that are applicable to your dryer since you did not specify the dryer's exact model number.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating



Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Bottom Panel) Running But Not Heating

Jun 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dry keeps blowing thermal cut-off switch for dryer


From your description I am assuming it is the thermal cutoff by the heating element that is blowing.

I would recheck the heating element for any signs that it has sagged and touched the case re: a weld or char mark.
The reason for this is at the top of the list is that the hi-limit should have shut the heater off before the cutoff blew and you have already replaced the hi-limit.

Check that the lint filter is clean and not coated with fabric softener residue.
If this unit has the operating thermostat on the blower check that all the internal seals (drum, blower etc. are OK. If the unit has a bad seal it will **** in room air, the thermostat sees this and then runs much hotter than it should.

Feb 02, 2011 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Have replaced heat element, thermostat, thermal cutoff, thermal fuse and cycle thermostat on whirlpool dryer. keeps blowing thermal cutoff! Exhaust is clear inside dryer and outside! What is causing all...


I'd like you to try something easy. Set the dryer to Air Fluff and see if the dryer still puts
out Heat let it run for about 2 full minutes If you dryer is still putting out Heat get back to me

Nov 06, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer wont heat


Your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is blown. It should read close to 0 ohms if good. In addition, it is highly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO. These parts are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of both parts.

BEFORE you replace anything make sure you check your dryer ventilation for clogs. Cleaning the lint screen is not enough as no lint screen captures 100 percent of the lint. Some lint always manages to end up in the vent line. This includes the blower fan housing INSIDE the dryer. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by clogged ventilation, leading to an overheat condition. In an overheat condition, the TCO will blow.

Some things to consider:

1. Are you pushing the dryer too far up against the wall? This lead to crushed or kinked dryer vent hoses which will result in overheating. Leave about a foot space between the back of the dryer and the wall to prevent this.
2. Does your dryer vent line run through an attic or crawl space? These types of configurations are notorious for creating choke points where lint can clog. This is either due to gravity in an attic configuration. Or, sags and kinks in a crawl space configuration. Frequent inspection and cleaning may be required.
3. Is your vent line excessively long? This can cause lint to back up because there isn't enough force from the blower fan to push it all out of the vent exhaust. The rule of thumb is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER a vent line, the BETTER.

I'm not trying to lecture you on something that may not be a problem with your dryer. I merely put this advice out as a precautionary to prevent you from purchasing parts, only to have them go bad prematurely because you weren't advised of what may be causing the problem. The TCO blows for a REASON. The reason is generally caused by an overheat condition. You need to figure out why.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Nov 24, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat


it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Jun 28, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Hotpoint NVL333EY Electric dryer blows thermal fuse


I had the same thing happen, I replaced the thermal cutoff and made sure no lint build up. It lasted a week then blew again. I then replaced it again and got to thinking why it would blow. I then took apart the exaust inside the dryer running fron the drum to the motor and right before the motor was a build up of lint ane particals that was almost like compressed sawdust which was blocking half of the line. I cleaned this out and it seemed to work much better.

Jan 04, 2008 | Hotpoint NVL333EY Electric Dryer

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