Is there a replacement thermometer? the compressor will not cycle

Question edited for clarity.

Yes, it is called 'cycling'. It runs and when the compressor has made it reach its set temperature, it cycles off. Then as the temperature rises, the compressor comes back on to reduce the temperature. If you drop a large package of fresh food in there, it should run longer. Check the temperature with a thermometer. I should be -18'C or 0'F +/- 2'.

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I have a recurring problem with a GE Profile PSB48LSRABV. Here's an example sequence:

• Fresh food compartment set to 37F on the control panel (for months)
• Thermometer in fridge reads 46F (with lots of water inside per manual)
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 37F
• Turn power off, count to 15, turn power on, wait for control panel to boot
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 46F (matches thermometer!)
• Compressor runs and cools fresh food compartment
• Hours later thermometer in fridge reads 37-38 (yeah!)
• Press "Display Temp" button shows fridge at 37F
• Within days, the fridge is warmer inside again, thermometer inside reads 45+, but display reads 37 - unit needs to be "rebooted" again!

Fresh food thermistor from top of cabinet measured properly in ice water (and warmer water), the unit has always passed all the self-tests, and condensor coils and fan are clean, so I had techs come give it a shot under home warranty:

• Trip 1 - Tech came to assess, ordered new evaporator fan
• Trip 2 - Replaced fresh food evaporator fan (note new fan is working in fridge, and old fan works fine on bench)
• Trip 3 - Ordered main computer PCBA
• Trip 4 - Replaced main computer PCBA

Unfortunately, it continues the same cycle of misreading the temperature until power cycles, and taking a day off of work for each visit is getting painful.
Any ideas?

low Freon will cause the compressor to short cycle

FRIDGE COILS or door walls SEEM VERY HOT:

The condenser coils do get hot. They can even be to hot to comfortably touch and this is normal.

The refrigerator should not run constantly but shut off with each defrost cycle.

Running constantly and never cycling off can indicate a cooling problem.

One thing to try is to wait till it has been running a few minutes then open the door and turn your cycling thermostat towards the off position. It should cycle off before getting to the off position on the dial.

If it does not cycle off then it's not getting cold enough to satisfy the thermostat. This is likely the reason the refrigerator runs all the time.

A thermometer in a glass of water can be used to check the temperatures in the refrigerator section.

You can check that all fans are running.

the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..

The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.: God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!

Freezer not reaching cut off temperature.measure temp with a thermometer. -18 TO -20 should allow thermostat to cut off compressor.

ok, what you have not told me was the temp of the ice plate. If you have an inferred thermometer now is a good time to use it. what is the Temp of the plates or ice collection try. Ice will never collect if it is not below zero C. 32F my guess is it must be below 28F. you need some kind to thermometer.

Hi Serneckr - Typically the thermometer picture on the screen is advising you that you have selected the sanitized cycle or that it is completed.

This must be one of those disposable guage/can things.Are you really going to trust a disposable guage?If the clutch wouldn't engage at all,and after adding some refrigerant,it engages erratically,it's probably still low on charge.Keep adding refrigerant while the system is running,until the compressor cycling becomes more normal.I like to place a box fan up against the grill to blow air over the condensor,to simulate the air flow created by the vehicle driving down the road.This lowers the temperature and pressure of the high side,allowing the refrigerant to flow in faster.You might also want to put a thermometer in the center dash duct to monitor the duct termperature.

Temperature setting/changes takes more than 2 hours to stabilize.If still running non stop after 24 hours use a digital thermometer to check the internal temp of refrigerator. If not cold enough it will not open the thermometer and turn off the compressor. Meanwhile, a 20 minute defrost cycle is about right.