Question about Frigidaire Refrigerators
I have a couple of things for you to check or rule out. Today, a refrigerator is required by electrical code to be connected to a dedicated, 15 amp outlet because the newer fridges are more efficient and use less than 12 amps. Not long ago, a dedicated 20 amp outlet was required because the older fridges were rated to use 12 amps or more (but less than 16 amps) and needed the larger size circuit. A 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse should not open for any standard residential fridge under normal operating conditions. A 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse _MAY_ open if an older fridge (needs 12 amps of more) is connected. Make sure that if a circuit is opening at the fuse or breaker, it is not because there are several appliances or devices in use and on the same circuit as the fridge.
The same holds true for "ground fault" and "arc fault" type circuits. If an older fridge is connected to such a circuit - nuisance tripping may result. Most newer fridges however shouldn't cause a problem on these circuits. Ground fault circuits have a "test" button on the circuit breaker or, "test" and "reset" buttons on an outlet providing this protection. Arc fault circuit protection is available only in circuit breakers (as of this time - but may become available as outlets some time in the future).
If you need to to try to isolate the problem on a 20 amp circuit, disconnect all other appliances on the other 20 amp circuits in the kitchen and dining room, then see if the fridge stays running. Alternatively, you could use a heavy duty extension cord to connect the fridge to a known isolated 20 amp circuit to see if the fridge runs. This is meant only to troubleshoot - the fridge should not be left connected via extension cord for normal operation.
If you still have tripping, you might need to have the fridge professionally serviced, as a ground fault could be a dangerous condition left unchecked.
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Posted on Jul 07, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This sounds like a grounded wire in your defrost system. Start by finding the defrost timer and checking the wires. One may have been pulled loose or pinched while it was being moved.
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
Your fridge should draw no more than 5amp. Presuming your breaker is at least 15amp there's a problem. Move to a different circuit first. If the condition persists check the start relay on the compressor. I have a suspicion the circuit may have another item you are not aware of.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
get an inexpensive clamp amp meter (Harbor Freight has them). Turn off power to the plug. Remove plug from wall but do not disconnet wires. turn fridge OFF. plug the unit in the recept. turn on the power. set the meter for the higest reading (amps) & clamp it around the black wire. turn the fridge ON & observe start up current & the "run" current. If the fridge is within limits on the data plate the problem is in the wiring circuit, maybe a loose connection either @ the plug or the breaker. if there are several plugs in the circuit, the problem could be in one of them. In addition, if there is a gfi plug in this circuit, it could be faulty also.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
Unless there is a dedicated circuit of 20 amps to the refrigerator this will continue to happen When your refrigerator goes into defrost and other things like lights fans air conditioners are on the same circuit it will have no choice to not trip the breaker. Try this turn the breaker off and how may thing in your house stop working? You need a 20 AMP circuit or this will possibly damage the compressor or weaken the breaker because it has tripped so many time. Thanks, Please rate my solution, I have done this work for 30 years. Thanks, Sea Breeze
If you have more questions or need help feel free to let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
replace the ptc overload relay on the compressor,it merely unplugs,it supplies start and run power to the compressor and if its bad it will allow the compressor to operate on the start windings too,and draw a lot of current
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
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