I have two kenwood 700 watt subs, i am getting a 1000 watt amplifier, which is 350 rms, for 2 chanell 4 ohms you know, but wht size speaker wire shoul i run from my subs to the amplifier? and any hints you want to give me. thanks
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The KAC-624 is a 40 watt x2 @ 4 ohm RMS amp. 55 watt x2 @ 2ohm. 110 watt x 1 Bridged I assume at 4 ohm. Manual does not specify. It can run 2 ohm in stereo mode but is unclear on mono impedance requirement. It can run 4 ohm mono at 110 watt but at 2 ohm?
No, your not over powering your L7, your underpowering your subwoofer.
Your Kenwood is
500W x 1 at 4ohms [20-200kHz 0.5% THD] 900W x 1 at 2ohms [100Hz 1.1% THD]
Your L7 is:
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)*
2000/1000But its ok for your subwoofer, alteast your not giving it to much stress. But personaly, get another mono amplifier that would match your subwoofers rating.
this bandpass enclosure is rated peak power at 1200 watts . what this means is that each subwoofer in the is peaked at 600watts to make 1200 watts . what your looking for is to power up the subs with rms continuous wattage . you need an amp that will put out 400 to 500 rms a channel to run this sub enclosure at 800 to 1000 watts rms to keep the speaker from blowing
this amp will give you
1 channel @ 4 ohm x1 350 watts
1 channel @ 2 ohm x1 900 wats
1 channel @ 1 ohm x1 1800 watts
you would have extra power for better subs with more power later but you get 900 watts which when connected right would mean 450 watts per sub be perfect for you .
i sell this for $320.99 in my store can shipp any where in usa
to contact me firstname.lastname@example.org
well first of all you cant bridge subs... you can bridge an amp... and for 2 they are probablly not 1000 watts, make sure you understand RMS and what the sub can ACTUALLY HANDLE properly... i would get a 1000 to 1500 watt RMS that is RMS RMS RMS RMS amp not one that says 2000 watts MAX POWER cuz thats cheap ****... get a kicker JL hifonic alpine or something in that category that actually tells you the TRUE power output of the amp... then run those 4 subs in a parallel circuit so its like really only having 2 subs. make sure then these subs do not run less then 2 ohms at the terminals while in a parallel, then bridge these subs acting as 2 subs not 4 to your TRUE 1000 watt amp and you should have a good powerful system
you can run 2 subs given that you dont go over 2 ohms of resistance and that the subs are rated at 1000 watt max each around 4 or 500 watt rms. if your not sure about ohms dont bridge it and get single voice coil subs. this amp is capable of about 700watts constant power 1200 max spike if the voltage stays at 12 or higher.
Having your subs in well-designed and constructed enclosures will make as much or more difference in their output than how you connect them to an amp.
The TS-SW1241D's are single voice coil 4 ohm shallow subwoofers that are rated for 350 watts RMS. For maximum loudness, your JL amp needs to be 2 ohm stable and capable of delivering 700 watts RMS into that impedance. Wire the subs in parallel for a 2 ohm load and maximum power from the amp.
Is the speaker a dual voice coil speaker? If so you can wire it up a couple of diferent ways, go to rockfordfosgate.com they have a woolfer wiring wizard that can show you the different ways to wire for 8 ohm.....4 ohm.....2 ohm....and 1 ohm...I would figure out how to get the most power out of the amp in mono mode, take that ohm load from there and see if you can wire your speaker to match it.
That 1600 watt peak power figure for your subwoofer can't tell you what amp you need. You need to know the maximum RMS power the sub can handle. And you need to know the impedance (ohms) of the voice coil(s). JBL GT5 series subs have an RMS rating of 275 watts. The GTO series handles 300 watts. The Power series handles 400 watts. The GTi series handles 700 watts. Some are single voice coil, so the impedance is fixed. Others are dual voice coil allowing you to wire them for different impedance loads.
For maximum performance your amp should be able to provide at or near the same number of watts RMS into the lowest impedance at which the sub can be configured. For example, if your sub is the Power Series Model number P1224, it has dual 4ohm voice coils and can be wired to present either a 2ohm load (parallel) or an 8ohm load (series). You want to wire the voice coils in parallel for the 2ohm load and select an amp that outputs up to 400 watts RMS into 2ohms. The Orion Cobalt CO8001 is just such an amp. If you have one of the GTi Series subs, a better amp would be the JVC Arsenal KS-AR75 which outputs 700 watts into 2ohms.
If the amplifier supports an RMS power output close to the RMS input power of the subwoofers then run the amplifier in stereo mode. For example 150 watts RMS X 4 channels driven at 20-20khz. (If you can provide a model # for the subs and the amp your looking at I can help you further with this decision.
Wiring for this is easy and simply involves matching the connectors for 2 of the channels (Front or Rear) to each of the subwoofers.
#2 Mono Bridged mode.
If the amplifier is lower power but mono bridgable you can bridge two Pairs of channels and power each of the subwoofers this way.
Generally speaking a 2 channel bridgable amplifier will be able to at least combine the wattage of each channel into a single monural channel and in many cases its actually higher.
So you would bridge the front 2 channels into a single bridged mode for one subwoofer. and then you could bridge the read 2 channels into another bridged mono channel for your other sub woofer.
For example if you had bridgable amplifier thats 50 watts RMS X 4 you coudl very likely (Generalization based on quality of amplifier) send 150 watts RMS to each subwoofer.
Again I would need to know what amp you're refering to to provide specific wiring instructions. Many Bridging amplifiers either have a single switch that will send them to bridged mode or you would use the positive + terminal from one channel and the negative - terminal from the other channel or a combination of both.