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When i turn on unit the red led light tuurns on for a second and the blue led for a millisecond and i hear a faint tweek but no pik or sound. on observation of what i think is the power pack i notice that one capacitor # H A L 1050 is not perfectly round on the side but the top seems normal. can you help with this problem. thanks, bill

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  • flightcomman Aug 16, 2010

    the info i received was too complicated. to fix my problem with the flat panel i would have to buy $2000 dollars worth of equipment. the source said he has been working on tv's for 30 years and i had the feeling that he did not want to help with a solution to a DIY

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  • Master
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Hello Sir, TV servicing is not a DIY, doing it by yourself without any knowhow may further damage or worst be lethal to you, the only thing you can do is replace the entire power supply board. this still needs a little soldering or if the TV is modular the board replaces entirely without soldering. Have the board ordered, If on hand open the back, locate the exact board, replace and test. Test...Test.. this is the crucial part, the new board may run or may be damage, so this needs careful installation. A missing connection (rookie mistake) can damage your TV.

Posted on Aug 16, 2010

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  • Master
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This is a classic switchmode power supply, shutting down to avoid a fire, explosion, or both. This set had developed a problem, that is so severe that the set must be shut down, This set should be removed from the Power, and in my professional recommendation, you should get a "Quote" for repair, from, an, Approved Service Center, this point is very important for a good result, Always contact, their local, "Head Office" Now, when you get the information you want, then you can decide as to repair of replacement. The reason we want an approved agent, is that way, all the engineers are trained on their own brand sets, they have seen almost all faults, and will get the job done quicker, and for less cost, and usually have parts on hand, also sometimes, there has been a service bulletin in issued and the repair may be subsided or even free.

Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. That’s it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then that’s a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty, and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be able to say.. "Oh that’s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish, a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's), Compressed Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, a magnifying glass, or eyepiece, a good strong white Light. OH, and you MUST have the original remote control too, (Sometimes one must obtain, purchase, a special “Servicing remote”) as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.
When servicing try not to let the entire thing overwhelm you as one, treat the set as a conjunction of “Units”. Meaning that we can break the unit up into sections, for instance we have a Power Supply, and Audio section, a Remote Control section, we have a Input Control section, we have a Video Control section, and so on. Now all these connect to specific parts of the circuit. Some have no relationship with each other and some are dependent upon each other. What we need to do is try to understand our “Fault” and isolate it to at least an “Area”. Now when we have isolated the apparent problem, we then need to check our “Input” to that section and also the “Output” of that section, also we must first check that sections supply voltage and current, are correct. Depending on the unit being serviced, the Repair options, may be limited to changing a “Board” to clear the fault. Often these boards are exchangeable, and you get a rebate back, if when you purchase the new board, you send them you old broken board, and they then repair that, and around it goes. Other times, one must go down to “Board level” to effect a repair, always double check, before determining some component is faulty, it is best to isolate/remove, the component to test, often an “in situ” test can give erroneous reading due to “Other” components connected, altering the readings. Always replace with as good if not better components that you are replacing, skimping of component costs is counterproductive, in the long run. It can often be a great troubleshooting method, to completely isolate the “Faulty” part of the circuit, if you can, isolate the in & out, and also remove, the “Native” power from, it too. You power from and external source, then also you can provide an External “Drive” to this circuit which you will NOW, be able to test under a, “know good” situation, which is so important to gain a benchmark for operation. NEVER EVER simply replace a Board or Component without ascertaining WHY, it has failed, as seldom does anything spontaneously fail, unless placed under stress at all operating times, such as a power Supply or the like.
So, it is nearly always my professional opinion that one should always get a "Quote" from the manufacturers recommended service center, please contact a local or head office and ask for a referral to an Authorised service center. I cannot stress how important that last point is. It is even worth the cost of shipping. You see an authorised service agent, will have trained staff, trained on their brand, also they have first hand access to parts, original parts. This will actually save you money and ensure you can actually get it back fixed. Of course asking for a "Quote" also gives on the option of repair or replace

Posted on Aug 16, 2010

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Note: The headphones and the wireless adapter come pre-paired from the factory.
1. Press and hold the power button on the headphones. See Figure 1.
headphone.jpg
Figure 1

2. Continue to hold the button down until the LED starts flashing red/blue in an alternating pattern. Release the button when the LED starts flashing red/blue. See Figure 2.
headphone-flash.gif
Figure 2
3. Once the headphones LED is flashing red/blue, press and hold the power button on the wireless adapter. See Figure 3.
receiver.jpg
Figure 3
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receiver-flash.gif
Figure 4
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headphone-volumeup.jpg
Figure 5
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headphone-flash2.gif
Figure 6
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receiversolid.jpg
Figure 7
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