Question about Ryobi Thickness Planer Blades

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Uneaven thickness when planing. how do i adjust

Uneaven thickness when planing. how do i adjust the blade

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You mean you're getting speed bumps? Do you have the blade setting tools that came with the planer? You need them, it will be hard to do without them. It is a little C shaped jig that rides on the drum over the knife, you have your knife sharpened and set in the drum, snug, not tight,under the knife are adj screws, you run the knife setter around the drum and just scrap the top of the knife, do not pull the knife, just go over it barely scraping it, then snug it up, do not tighten anything yet, move on to the next screw, do the same thing, then the last screw, then go back to the first, still good? second, third, now, tighten them up, the setter doesn't pull the knife, just barely scrapes it, but it does hit it. Now do the other side. Both knives will be set the same, no more speed bumps, or uneven cuts. To move the knife back in, if you brought it out too far, use a block of wood to tap it down, make sure you put the elevation screw down first. Do not answer the fone while doing this. It is serious stuff, when those knives start flying. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

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1 Answer

How can I fix or replace a broken wingnut on my Stanley No220 Block Plane?


Hi Steve. A cursory check on ebay shows you can buy one for as little as 7.00. I suggest buying one used or one being sold for parts. I had this same part broken on mine. They are cast metal and tend to break. From one wood worker to another, I'd highly recommend bumping up your game to a plane with an adjustable throat like the Stanley 9 1/2 adjustable throat plane. You'll thank me for the rest of your life! :)

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How do i assemble a stanley block plainer


1, Lay pencil on the table top, place body of plane with the front (toe) resting on the pencil, so the light passes beneath the front and middle of the plnes body.
2, lay blade, bevel side up, in to body of plane, ideally sharp end is sticking out of the mouth ever so slightly., 1/2-1mm.

3, Release the knob or lever cam on the lever cap and place on top of blade.

4, tighten knob/turn leaver till it tightens on the blade. and your ready.

5, If the blade isn't protruding the mouth correctly then:

6, Loosen a knob/lever a little to allow the blade to just move, adjust the blade forwards/sidways, lock it in place by re tighten the knob/lever.

Plane a thin piece of wood, re adjust as necessary till wafer thin shavings collect in the mouth ontop of the bevel.

Aug 29, 2014 | Bailey Stanley 12-920 - Block Plane

1 Answer

How to adjust


Those are funny little planes - they're wicked handy when you need one. I like mine a LOT.

They ARE coarsely built, not a "fine" tool, but they do a fine job.

Loosen the little screw SLIGHTLY, then either bump the rear of the iron (to extend it more) or the rear of the plane (to extend the iron less) against a piece of softwood (bench, sawhorse, 2x4, hammer handle). When it's where you want it, tighten the little screw again.

Adjust the plane's mouth (assuming that you're using it as a bullnose plane, not as a chisel plane) by loosening the big screw, then just sliding the bullnose front & rear.

Remember - planes are meant to SHAVE wood. The iron should NOT take off a thick shaving, it should take off a shaving no thicker than one sheet of toilet paper. The iron should BARELY peek out from under the plane.

Jan 14, 2014 | Stanley 12 - 975 Contractor Grade Bull...

1 Answer

Blade shadt adjustment


run a bit of timber through and measure the sides for the same measurement. adjust the thick side up till it is the same measurement both sides.

Apr 29, 2013 | Craftsman 1212 in Thickness Planer

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I just received a new Handyman No4 but I dont know to where to set the adjusting nut! Does the "horse shoe" fit inside the plastic in the nut or in front of it? The instructions provided are not...


I'm not sure exactly what you're referring to as a "horse shoe". However, you will find a wealth of information on exactly how to set up and tune your hand plane if you search google for "tuning a hand plane" There are videos and books that deal with the subject exhaustively. Here's a link to one.
In general, I have only used a variety of wooden and cast iron planes, and so I'm not familiar with a plastic adjusting mechanism. I hope these instructions will help you nevertheless...
Here's a complete set of instructions for the No. 4 smoothing plane, that includes a list of the terminology used to describe the plane's parts. If you can, please read that and provide a more detailed description of your problem. The cap iron needs to fit tightly against the plane iron (or blade), with the iron protruding just about 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch beyond the cap iron. Then these fit down over the adjusting lever or cam depending on the plane, and the lever cap adjustment screw should be adjusted so the lever cap snaps into place with some force, but still allows the iron to be adjusted slightly in and out with the adjustment screw. The main adjustment screw is usually beloew the iron at the rear of the frog, that wedge shaped piece of steel that supports the iron.(Some people release the lever cap tension before adjusting the iron, but with correct screw tension this should not be necessary.) I hope that helps and doesn't sound like jibberish.
Otherwise, you may find better instructions with a detailed search here,

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

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1 Answer

I am unable to raise or lower the cutting surface of my DW734 thickness planer. The turn handle is very hard to turn. Is there some kind of a locking mechanism ? If I had a manual I might be able to figure...


Follow this link: http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?productNumber=DW734

This will allow you to download the manual and exploded art for base, cutterhead and motor. You may also want to check the position of the turret stop. First of all, make sure the cutterhead lockdown lever is disengaged. Here is from the manual:

Your planer is equipped with a turret stop (M), shown in

Figure 11, for repetitive planing of pre-set depths. Stops are

set at 0", 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". Use the 0" setting when planing

between 1/8" and 1/4".

TO SET A PLANING DEPTH

1. Be sure the carriage is set above 1-1/4" before trying to

set the turret stop.

2. Turn the turret stop until the desired measurement

shows (Fig. 11).

3. Unlock the head lock lever (Fig. 8). Turn the depth

adjustment crank, lowering the carriage by the desired

increments, until it contacts the turret stop.

NOTE: DO NOT USE FORCE TO CRANK THE CARRIAGE

BELOW THE LEVEL THAT THE TURRET STOP INDICATES.

PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM ON YOUR PLANER WILL

RESULT.

NOTE: The 3/4" turret stop can be adjusted for other planing

thicknesses. Adjusting the 3/4" turret stop does not affect the

other turret stop settings.

TO ADJUST THE 3/4" STOP FOR OTHER

THICKNESSES

1. Unlock the head lock lever (Fig. 8) and turn the adjustment

handle counterclockwise to raise the cutter head.

2. From the back of the tool, locate the turret adjustment

bolt (N) shown in Figure 11. This bolt is set for a 3/4"

depth of cut at the factory. Use the crescent wrench provided

to loosen the jam nut. Adjust the bolt up or down to
reach the desired planing depth.

3. Turn the depth adjustment crank, lowering the carriage by
the desired increments, until it contacts the turret stop.

Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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Thicker metal shows greater blade / saw adjustment errors. A simple 1/64 or 1/32 wont show much on an 1/8 thick piece of metal when cut.
Those numbers will double quickly as the cutting blade travels through thick metal.
Metal band saws seem to be trickier to adjust and fine tune because the blade seems to be twisted into the roller guides.
The downloaded manual for the saw that looked most like mine at grizzly.com helped my adjustments a lot.
The saw quality is also a factor.

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1 Answer

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I think you are talking about what is commonly called "snipe". This is an inherent problem with all planers, but especially with heavier cuts. You can take lighter cuts, or you can start with a board longer than your intended finish length. You can also put the board you are planing on top of a longer board, then feeding them through together.

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1 Answer

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It sounds like your blade holder assy has become misaligned on the blade drive shaft. Try if you can to use a straight edge on 2 planes 90 deg apart and see if there are any gaps in either of the srtaight edges. I suspect that the blade drive holder has become slightly dislodged from the drive collar on one end allowing the blade drive to tilt on the drive shaft. I had the same thing happen on another brand named Planer and it was a matter of reseating the collar to cure the stripes. Sure took a long time to sort out. Good Luck.

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