Question about Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hey there i had a search F then 1 flashes there is a primary control failure. Replace the machine control assembly my best bet would be to call a service center or repair guy to advise you further what to do or even fix it as this will be a ongoing stuff around for you and you dont need that
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
SOURCE: FH Error on a whirlpool
fh is no water in unit if no water coming in suspect fill valve if water comes in first ck drain hose ..be sure it is correct height from floor and fits loosely in standpipe it may be siphoning out fast as it runs in..next suspect flowmeter this is under top left side has a small hose in and 1 out with 2 blue wires attached ..this let,s computer control know there is water flow into machine try tapping it lightly with a screw driver if problem corrects replace it if not still might be flowmeter it has a small leaf switch that will stick in postion
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
Yes, there is...The legs on the washer are adjustable, the rear legs are often ( not always ) self adjusting, make sure the legs are not stuck and that they can move freely. But the front legs can screw in and out to move the washer depending on the floor the washer is sitting on. Make sure the washer is as low to the floor as possible. When the legs are screwed out too far the washer becomes wobbly. Often on the metal style legs there are lock nuts that can be tightened to secure the legs so they don't move on you. washers where really meant to sit on a cement floor, if your washer is on a wooden floor look carefully at the strength of the floor. If the floor is moving up and down when the washer is running, the floor may not be strong enough to support the washers weight. Most main floor laundry rooms floors are nailed down, the sub-floor is more secure if the sub-floor has been screwed down. Sometimes extra support may have to be added under the flooring to add some strength
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
If you have not taken the exterior washer casing off, the first steps will explain how to accomplish this:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Once the casing is removed, you should have full access the the washer interior components. Since you have mentioned you taken the "internal post" off (I'm assuming this is your agitator), I will spare the steps in involved in accomplishing that task.
Next, follow these series of steps:
1. Remove the tub ring. This is the cylindrical donut shaped ring attached to the top of the wash tub. This ring needs to be removed in order to accommodate the removal of the inner spin basket. The tub ring comes off by placing a screwdriver under the series of the tabs that hold it in place and GENTLY prying them up until they release. Be careful not to break off the tabs, or crack the wash tub.
2. Remove the spanner nut that is under the agitator. This holds the inner spin basket to center post.
3. With the spanner nut removed, the spin basket should lift straight up and out. Sometimes the basket will stick to the center-post and may required some "coaxing" to get it free. This can be accomplished by grabbing the rim of the spin basket and prying up on one side, then the other, in an attempt to rock the basket side to side.
Searspartsdirect.com has excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use as a reference. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The tub ring gasket, I mention below, is listed as item 6. Appliancepartspros.com also has these same drawings.
Some things to consider:
If you remove the tub ring, it is recommended that you replace the seal on the ring before reassembly. Once the tub seal is broken, it can leak if the seal is not replaced.
When reinstalling the exterior cabinet, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS What is the reason for removing the spin basket? Anything else I can help you with?
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
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