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Flame wont go high so its not heating up the house the heater is about 25 years old its a round heater with a flue sticks out of the corner

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  • luluwong45 Jul 07, 2010

    its a gas heater we toke the glass cover off the front to get into it its like a round coil type
    with very fine holes

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  • Master
  • 518 Answers

The heater needs servicing,= what is it gas fed,so jets need cleaning,oil feed,filter cleaned or changed depending on type

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

  • kenbudd44 Jul 07, 2010

    the holes may have carbon deposits in them so will need cleaning out

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Trouble shooting light blinks 6 times showing open roolout!how do i fix that problem!


The flame rollouts are located in the burner compartment and attached to the sides or top of the metal housing around the actual burners. They are small and round and have 2 wires hooked to them. They are there for safety to detect if the flame is rolling out of the heat exchanger, caused by other possible issues. However, sometimes they do go bad and have to be replaced. Also, your rollouts are ran in series with the limits and may also be that. The only way to track it down is to have a meter that measures continuity and after the unit stops working, see which device you lost current through. Bypassing these can be harmful and cause major problems so I do not recommend it. One thing you can try is to make sure all filters are clean and the air flow throughout the house is "normal". These can cause the unit to overheat and trip one of the limit switches that I mentioned earlier. I also do not recommend watching if the flame is coming out of the heat exchanger causing a rollout to trip, but if it is, you could have a blocked flue pipe or other issues. I hope this helps or at least points you in the right direction. Good luck and happy holidays!

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Lennox g1703-75-1 resetable switch periodically opens.


Might check you entering and leaving gas pressure first. The gas manifold I'd designed for a certain amount or positive pressure. If its a flue restriction, the induced draft motors' pressure switch wouldn't close, normally. The orifice may be damaged, crooked, or dirty? If it's just the 1 acting this way, inspect the orifice. Some furnaces have a piece of metal, inside the heat exchanger, that sends the flame/heat in a spiral form. Peer inside the openings to the heat exchanger. You should be able to see them if present. Hope this helps!

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Hi there my home is about 3 years old. i have noteced black dust on the doors window frames basically everywhere. i don't know why.


Does this unit have an blower? If so there is no filter and this can happen.
Direct vent means no open flame in the house but you might still have a combustion problem. Open the front cover and check for black soot. Also check outside at the flue for soot. If so then you need to get this thing checked. Also make sure the little door for the pilot is closed. May have a improper install here if only 3-years.

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Our heater starts fine then after about 10minutes


Thanks for the info on model type.
Two reasons this might be happening.
First is linked to the flame failure device (called a thermocouple in this case). If you have taken the glass off and removed the coals you could see the pilot assembly to right side of the burner. It should spray one flame to the burner and another to the left where it heats a small copper rod; this is the thermocouple. Make sure this flame is nice and blue and not yellow. It needs to fully engulf the top tip of the rod. Sometimes when the unit heats up the pull of hot gases up the flue/chimney drags a weak flame off the thermocouple and shuts the unit down. Also the thermocouple can wear out after a few years so it if the flame is good but you still get this fault it might need replacing (not too expensive usually). The thermocouple also incorporates an overheat trip located at the end of the thermocouple lead up to the right near the gas valve assembly. This could also be causing the problem. If you get a new thermocouple get the overheat as well. I always used to change both at the same time to ensure the problem was fixed.

Second fault is a bit more worrying. I have had cases where the flue pipe or chimney has become blocked. After a few minutes of operation the flame would become yellowy and deposit black carbon particles on the logs. The flame becomes contaminated by the flue gases that cannot escape and eventualy the unit will "choke" it self. This can be very dangerous but I think you would have noticed. Check the terminal of the flue anyway: no birds nests of debris.

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Boiler Venting.


There cannot be controlled venting of the flue , the products of combustion must have free flow to escape , The heat exchanger is above the burner which heats the water if you thinks this is high then maybe you a pressure problem . Or contact the makes tech line and ask them what they think the consumption might be for you heater .You may find this on google

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My Colman forced air heater is cycling acording to the thrmastat but wont heat up. The trouble shooting light flashes three times.What part do you think is failing?


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Laars lite 2, mod-lg125n, sn. d03pj3400.


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GDS80904BNA Goodman furnace only cylces off for a minute


Sounds like your repair man ripped you off. He should have stood behind his work.
1. I would try to clean the flame sensor located just below the burners. It is connected to "one" wire (Not the two wire) clean rod with sandpaper.
2. The old and thermostat could have a had a bad heat anticipator. if the new t/stat is not digital the heat anticpator on the T/stat needs to be adjusted. slide the small adjuster arm under the cover to about .6 or .7 and see if the solves the problem. if the t/stat is digital it should be preset from the factory.
3. last resort have a service man check your pressure swith. could be a slow inducer motor, blocked or bad vacum line, or a restricted drain or flue pipe.
Good luck!

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