Question about Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection Television

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Same as everyone green light comes on for a couple of seconds than back off!!!

I have been reading solutions, I did the diagnostic mode, my code is 2-2, short protect, what next??? I already pulled the motherboard from the TV just need to know what to fix or replace. I fixed the bowing problem a couple of years ago by resoldering the contacts and never had a problem with that again. The TV worked beautifully the night before and the next day this green light problem. HELP! Please!!!

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Ok, the problem with short detect....
unsolder all convergance ic's and try to turn it on.
does it come on?
if no, check all diods in the power suppy area.
check h-output
unsolder all convergance ic's and try to turn it on.
does it come on?
also might have a vertical ic.
mmm, check all fuses including the solder in pico fuses.
beleave they are sold green color.
when i get one that comes in they have 1 or 2 blowed pico fuses and that means convergance ics need replaced along with fuses.
good luck!!

Posted on Apr 21, 2008

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Electrical issue.


Access ECM on the data link connector . Turn ignition switch on(do not start). Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECM fully clockwise. Wait at least 2 seconds. Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECM fully counter clockwise . Self diagnosis in mode 2 Mil should flash. If the scan tool record s codes or the mil light will flash the codes

Feb 18, 2014 | 1997 Nissan Maxima

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Check engine light for volvo 850 wont go off wat else can be the problem if i got a full tune up and put in new spark plugs plus it trembles alot and it shakes when i start it up plus wen i put it on...


Hi, I recommend you access the OBD panel to extract the trouble codes. Then send us the trouble codes for further advice. On 850 models the DLC is located in the engine compartment in front of the module box, behind the passenger side headlamp.

  1. Open diagnostic socket cover and install selector cable into socket No. 2 for fuel injection codes or socket No. 6 (except Motronic systems) for ignition codes.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
  3. Enter control system 1 by pressing the button once. Hold the button for at least 1 second, but not more than 3.
  4. Watch the diode light and count the number of flashes in the 3 flash series indicating a fault code. The flash series are separated by 3 second intervals. Note fault codes.

1f there are no fault codes in the diagnostic unit, the diode will flash 1-1-1 and the fuel system is operating correctly.
  1. If diode light does not flash when button is pressed, or no code is flashed there is a problem with the soft-diagnostic system, proceed as follows:
    1. Check ground connections on the intake manifold, and the ground connection for the Lambda-sond at the right front mudguard.
    2. Check the fuses for the pump relay and the primary pump. On 240 models, fuses are located inside the engine compartment on the left side wheel well housing. On 760/780 models, fuses are located in the center console, just below the radio. On 740/940 models, fuses are located behind the ashtray. Access can be gained by removing the ashtray, and pressing upward on the tab marked electrical fuses press. On 850 models, the fuses are located on the left side of the engine compartment behind the strut mount plate. The fuses on 960 models are located on the far left side of the dashboard. The driver's door must be open to gain access to the fuses.
    3. Remove glove compartment, and check control unit ground connections.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove control unit connector and connector protective sleeve.
    5. Check diagnostic socket by connecting a voltmeter between ground and No. 4 connection on the control unit connector. Reading should be 12 volts. If no voltage is present, check lead between control unit connector and fuse No. 1 in the fuse/relay box.
    6. Turn the ignition to the ON position, and install selector cable into the No. 2 socket on the diagnostic socket. Connect a voltmeter between ground and No. 12 connection on the control unit connector. Reading should be 12 volts. Press the button on diagnostic socket and note reading. Reading on the voltmeter should be 0 volts. If no voltage at the control unit is present, take reading at the diagnostic socket connector. If reading remains at 12 volts when button is pressed, check diagnostic socket.
    7. Connect a voltmeter between ground and the red/black lead on the diagnostic socket connector. Reading should be 12 volts.
    8. Connect a suitable ohmmeter between ground and the brown/black lead in the diagnostic socket connector. Reading should be 0 ohms.
    9. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. Connect ohmmeter between diagnostic socket selector cable and the pin under selector button. The ohmmeter should read infinity. Press the button and note the reading. The reading should be 0 ohms.
    10. Connect a suitable diode/multimeter tester, or equivalent, between the diagnostic socket diode light and the selector cable. Connect red test pin from the tester to pin under diode light and black test pin from tester to selector cable. A reading on the tester indicates correct diode light function. With no reading on tester, replace diagnostic socket.
    11. Check the system relay/primary relay by connecting a voltmeter between ground and the No. 9 connection on the control unit connector, then connect a jumper wire between ground and No. 21 connection on the control unit connector. The relay should activate and the reading should be 12 volts.

  2. Press the diagnostic socket button. Note any additional fault codes.

The diagnostic system memory is full when it contains 3 fault codes. Until those codes are corrected and the memory erased, the system cannot give information on any other problems.
  1. Press the diagnostic socket button for the third time to see if a third fault code is stored in the memory. If the diode light flashes the same code 1-1-1, there are no other codes in the memory.

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Fig. Fig. 1: Push button once for mode 1
Push button twice for mode 2


Push button three times for mode 3




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To clear the codes:

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
  2. Read fault codes.
  3. Press diagnostic socket button 1 time and hold for approximately 5 seconds. Release button. After 3 seconds the diode light should light up. While the light is still lit, press the button again and hold for approximately 5 seconds. After releasing the button, the diode light should go off.
  4. To ensure that the memory is erased, press the button 1 time, for 1 second but not more than 3 seconds. The diode light should flash code 1-1-1.
  5. Start and run engine. If engine will not start, correct the problem before proceeding and start over with Step 1.
  6. Check to see if new fault codes have been stored in the memory by pressing the diagnostic socket button 1 time, for 1 second but not more than 3 seconds.
  7. If fault code 1-1-1 flashes, it indicates that there are no additional fault codes stored in its memory.

Oct 05, 2011 | 1994 Volvo 850

1 Answer

Nissan pulsar 1987 n13 the ECM light came one and the car cut out and won't start again and I need to know where the ECM is


Hi, the computer is under the passenger's seat. Code extraction procedure is pasted below.


READING CODES Modes will not switch while the engine is running. The ECM automatically switches to MODE I when the ignition is switchedOFF.
1984-90 Vehicles With Dual LED System
The self-diagnostic system has 5 modes. To switch modes, switch the ignition ON and use a screwdriver to turn the mode select switch through the access port on the ECM. The inspection lights will begin to flash. When the desired mode has been entered, turn the screwdriver fully counterclockwise. The red LED and green LED perform different functions in different modes.
Mode I-
This is the normal vehicle operating mode. The green LED will indicate loop status. If the green LED is not blinking when the engine is running, the vehicle is in open loop, or the HO 2 S, O 2 S, or sensor circuit has a malfunction. If the green LED is blinking, the vehicle is in closed loop. If a malfunction takes place, the red LED and the MIL will glow, indicating a malfunction has occurred.
Mode II-
Both the red LED and green LED are used to monitor mixture ratio feedback control. The green LED will function as described in MODE I. If vehicle is in open loop, the red LED and green LED will remain on or off. In order for results to be valid, vehicle must be in closed loop. In closed loop, the red LED remains off if the system is running rich, comes on if the system is running lean, and blinks at the same time with the green LED if system is within 5% of the exact air/fuel ratio.
Mode III
-When this mode is accessed, the codes stored in the ECM's memory will be flashed by the green LED and red LED on the side of the ECM. The red LED will light first. This is the first digit of the trouble code; the green LED will flash next, showing the second digit of the code. For example: 2 flashes of the red LED followed by 1 flash of the green LED corresponds to Code 21.
Mode IV-
This mode is used for checking the throttle plate (TP) switch, starter, and vehicle speed switch status. When the TP switch or starter switch is activated, the red LED will briefly flash as the status changes. For VSS status, the green LED will remain off when vehicle speed is less than 12 mph (19 km/h) and come on when vehicle speed is greater than 12 mph (19 km/h).
Mode V-
This mode represents a real-time diagnostic test of the crank angle sensor, ignition signal and the mass airflow signal. The malfunction code will be displayed only when the malfunction occurs and will not be stored in memory. The output code will appear as a single or short string of pulses. Count the number of pulses for the malfunction code.



1 pulse-CMP sensor signal lost or noise in signal 2 pulses-MAF Sensor signal abnormal 3 pulses-Fuel pump circuit shorted or open 4 pulses-Ignition signal lost

Apr 19, 2011 | 1987 Nissan Pulsar

1 Answer

In my WS 65809 projector tv, when I turn on the power, the green light clicks on for a couple of seconds, then clicks right back off.


DO THIS AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND:

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UNPLUG TV AND THEN PLUG BACK IN---TURN ON---GREEN POWER LIGHT COMES ON FOR A MOMENT AND GOES OFF.

PRESS AND HOLD “device” and “menu” buttons on front of tv for at least 5 seconds and then release both together.


Watch for power light to blink in a sequence:

1 blink-then 2 blinks-------no error

2 blink-then 1 blink-------X-ray protection

2 blink-then 2 blink-------SHORT PROTECTION*******

2 blink-then 3 blink---------deflection circuit problem

2 blink-then 4 blink---------vertical circuit problem


******2, then 2 is most common---usually means one of the fuses that protect the Convergence IC or IC’s is blown---set will detect no voltage to convergence IC and shut down.


SET WILL REPEAT BLINK ERROR CODE UP TO 5 TIMES AND THEN TO GET IT TO REPEAT MORE YOU HAVE TO UNPLUG SET AND TRY TO TURN ON AGAIN.


IF IT IS 2 AND THEN 2---USUALLY
CONVERGENCE CIRCUIT PROBLEM

If this information has helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

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1 Answer

Dimension 8400 will not boot and more.......


I would recommend testing the power supply as Dell PS's are not known to be "forever". A power supply tester can be purchased online at Tigerdirect.com for around $20 and they are fairly easy to use (you can also get a new PS there if necessary). If that is not it, I recommend going to a local small computer shop and picking up a used Hard Drive (be sure to get SATA), and switch it for your main HDD,, if the PC starts up and goes to an "Error no OS found" or the ilk, the culprit is your hard drive. I am in CT and fix PC's for a living, I am A+ certified and have passed all the dell Factory Cert tests. If you need help and are in the area or work well over the phone,, let me know I CAN solve this problem.

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2 Answers

2001 Mitsubishi 65 inch HD1080 rear projection. When I turn it on, green light comes on for 2 seconds then it turns itself off. No flashing green light like others I read about.


Ok, try this first. After attempting to turn on set after it shuts off push and hold the MENU and INPUT buttons at the same time on the front of the set for 10 seconds. This should acccuate the self diagnostics function in the micro and the power LED should start blinking a two sequence code. That code will narrow things down.

Jun 03, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-65511 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Power/Standby light blinks green then screen goes blank (off) for


I have a similar problem. Just found out a possible solution yesterday. I am waiting for my lamp but here's what you need to do if you have replaced your lamp. Go into self diagnostics mode: Switch of your TV via remote, you will see red standy by light. Now,on the remote press "Display"=>"Channel 5"=>"Volume Up"=>"Power Button". All these keys need to be pressed within 3 seconds. You will now enter the diagnostics mode. Press "Jump" on remote (bottom right) 3 times and then press "Channel 2" 9 times. The screen will display your current lamp hours used.

In order to reset your tv to factory settings and for the new bulb to work you must reset this timer or else your TV will assume you are still using the old bulb and will automatically kick in "over protection mode". So here's what you do once you do on the lamp hours display screen. Press the "Channel 3" button on the remote 3 times then "Mute" then "Press Enter" to reset the timer to zero. Your TV should now work as normal. And remember, whenever a part is replaced all factory settings must be reset to zero. To do this, follow "Display"=>"Channel 5"=>"Volume Up"=> "Power Up" to enter service mode. Finally, press "Channel 8" and then "Enter" to put the TV back to factory settings.

The above mentioned is usually performed by a service technician and they charge somewhere around $95 diagnostic fee. You just saved this charge. If you see flashing red lights count them when they flash in sequence. This is a code for the techs to tell them what is wrong. These flashing red lights sequentially flash from 0 to 10 times to identify a problem. Usually, when the bbulb goes bad the only thing that might need to be replaced would be a "lamp Driver" aka "Power Block Assembly" $116.25 online from Sony, or the ballast. Sometimes, if you do not have a video a Thermal FUse can go bad which only costs $4.80 for the KDF60-XS955 but the techs will charge you over $300. You can do this yourself if you can get your hands on a service manual.

Hope this info helps.

Good Luck to you all.

Jan 20, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-60XS955 60" Rear...

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Maytag Dishwasher model # MDB5130AWW


I had a similar issue with my MDB5130AWW. The Wash was interupted and wouldn't come back on. Not knowing where to start I read some other solutions on this site and started by opening the bottom cover. Thats where I found a 4 page diagnostic / Electrical Schematic. Start with the Sales Demo mode of pressing the Rinse button 5 times within 5 seconds. I had to do it twice before the washer came "alive". I was estatic after reading about the $100 mainboard cost and maybe more for other parts. The document has other test and what different keypads mean when flashing. Thankfully I didn't have to go that far.

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