Question about Kenmore 24 in. 15992 Built-in Dishwasher

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Problem for Kenmore 24 in. 15992 Built-in Dishwasher Previously answered by Ginko but have not had any responses since June 18 and problem not solved. No water flow into dishwasher. Actual model is Kenmore Elite undercounter dishwasher 665.15982990. Float is not stuck. Worked fine for 10 years until mid May. Display shows cycle is on and counting, for all the different cycles. No valve or motor sound when starting cycles, only a single electronic click. When cycle is canceled, motor does start as if to drain water. What's been tried... Jumped the contacts on the pressure switch with no change. Also heard the click clearly when float was raised and lowered. For inlet valve, reading appeared okay but decided this seemed to be the easiest repair so replaced it with Sears part #9744468. No change. Replaced the electronic control board part #8530929. When I started cycle, heard a loud click, then no change from previous. Tried jumping the door lock switch contacts but still the cycle did not start. Meter tests... Float switch open and closed (0 to infinity) okay when float moved. Continuity okay from control board to float switch. Continuity okay from door switch to control board. Continuity okay from inlet valve to control board. No voltage at the inlet valve when cycled dishwasher. Voltage fine from door switch to control board. No voltage leaving control board (BU-BK wire) so of course no voltage is reaching float switch. (Tested while cycling dishwasher). So is problem in control board? Voltage enters but does leave control board when water should be filling. I did replace the control board, so I'm confused. Is it possible I received a faulty board? Or there is a short somewhere that caused the board to fry? Thank you for any help you can provide!

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  • yostgreg Sep 27, 2010

    Have been doing dishes by hand since last post. Frustration with not finding problem as well as other distractions prevented me from really digging into the problem again. So called the Sears serviceman last week. He replaced the control board and voila, the dishwasher worked. So I'm out another $283. Seems that the issue was a faulty board. Wish you had answered the questions I asked on the July 7 post about possibility of receiving a faulty board.



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Sorry about your old query.

If there is no power on black wire and no filling, then check and eventually replace the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is attached to control board. If it is faulty it will read continuity, normally it must read zero or no power. Here the part:FUSE THERMAL ELECTRONIC (Fuse Assembly).

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

  • yostgreg Jul 10, 2010

    Hi Ginko,
    Thanks for responding again. Guess I had misread your original post on June 3rd about the thermal fuse...
    "That is the control board fuse. That is probably OK, or the machine
    won't start at all. The fuse can be tested disconnecting terminals and
    reading impedance. The fuse will read zero or low impedance or infinity.
    When it reads infinity (open), that means that the fuse is gone."
    I took open to mean that there would be no continuity.
    Well, the fuse does show continuity. Opposite of what I was thinking since normally a blown fuse does not show continuity.
    I'll order the part and let you know.
    Thanks again for your help.



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