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I have a Brown propane gas range and over in my park model camping trailer. I t is an older model. The problem is the oven will not light. The pilot is lit and when when the oven control knob is turned, the second pilot lights. The safety valve however does not activate to turn on the burner. I have replaced the gas valve A new temperature sensor was included with the replacement valve. Both were identical to the units which they replaced. My thinking is that for some reason the second pilot is not hot enough to activate the temperature sensor and the burner. The flame on the burner seams weak and it is yellow/orange in color . I seam to remember it being more blue. Can anyone shed some light on this?

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  • scott_jahnke Jul 07, 2010

    I am trying to find out how close to the pilot the thermocouple needs to be located and what color the pilot flame should be when the thermostat is on (Orange or Blue)?. It is currently Orange. Also, is there a way to test the safty valve when removed form the oven?

  • scott_jahnke Jul 07, 2010

    Jul 07, 2010
    - My model has 2 separate pilots on 2 separate gas lines. The small pilot is always lit. The 2nd lights when the thermostat is turned on however it seams weak what color should it be? How close is it supposed to be to the Thermocouple? When I installed the new one, we installed it in the same location as the old one which used to work until this year.

  • scott_jahnke Jul 08, 2010

    Very informative, Thank you



3 Answers

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On a pilot ignition oven, there is a pilot which is an actual gas flame (although very small) in the oven. What happens in this system is that the pilot stays lit all the time and when the oven thermostat is turned on, the pilot flame extends (gets bigger) to envelope the thermocouple bulb of the oven safety valve. The thermostat controls gas flow to both the pilot and to the oven safety valve. Once the oven safety valve's thermocouple senses appropriate heat, the safety valve opens to allow gas flow to the oven burner where the pilot flame ignites the gas. The main oven burner should usually light in less than 1-1½ minutes after the pilot flame has extended to envelope the safety valve's thermocouple.

On a pilot ignition system the pilot flame must be lit for the oven burner to receive gas. If the pilot will not stay lit, there may be a problem in the oven thermostat (which supplies gas flow to the pilot) or the gas tubing leading to it and/or the pilot itself may be plugged with cobwebs, grease, etc.
I have a Brown propane - alertbubble.gif Note: On some recent (2004+) Americana, GE, Magic Chef and probably other pilot ignition range models, the oven thermostat knob needs to be pushed in and held before the pilot can be re-lit if it has gone out. The oven control knob may have to continue to be held in for up to a minute after the pilot has been re-lit. If the pilot IS lit but the oven burner is not lighting, the pilot flame will need to be inspected as the thermostat is turned on. If the pilot is not extending when the thermostat is tuned to ON, the oven thermostat may be defective. If the pilot is extending but the oven gas valve is not opening, that oven safety valve may be defective or its sensor bulb may be out of position on the pilot or just dirty causing it to not sense the proper temperature of the pilot flame. A dirty pilot can also cause a reduced size pilot flame so the oven safety valve can not sense the proper temperature to open.

Take care.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

  • scott_jahnke Jul 07, 2010

    My model has 2 separate pilots on 2 separate gas lines. The small pilot is always lit. The 2nd lights when the thermostat is turned on however it seams weak what color should it be? How close is it supposed to be to the Thermocouple? When I installed the new one, we installed it in the same location as the old one which used to work until this year.

  • Sulaimon Jimoh Olayemi Jul 07, 2010


    What happens in this style
    ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches
    power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in
    series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it
    heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor
    draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to
    flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites
    it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve
    for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame. Once the
    set temperature is achieved the control stops all power to the ignition
    circuit which causes the ignitor to dim and the oven gas valve to close,
    stopping any burner flame. Cycling on and off continues to maintain the
    specific temperature the control is set for.

    On models utilizing a 'dual'
    gas valve, both the bake and broil gas and ignition systems
    should be considered totally independent of each other. Even each side
    of the dual gas valve should be looked at as two separate 'single' gas
    valves. Just because one side of a dual gas valve might work does NOT
    mean the other side of the valve should work too.

    As long at the ignitor is being
    powered, the control system (hydraulic thermostat or electronic
    control) is doing its job. The ignitor, while glowing, may not be
    allowing the proper amount of current to flow through it to the oven gas
    valve for it to open. Proper testing (see the link at the bottom of the
    page) requires an ammeter to check the current flow through the
    ignition circuit to the oven bake/broil valve.

    Weak oven ignitors can
    glow but not achieve an adequate resistance to allow the correct current
    to flow to the gas valve for it to open. They can also glow but not be
    quite hot enough to ignite the gas immediately.

    If the ignitor ages and gets
    'weak', it is possible for it to glow and generate some warmth in the
    oven but the oven burner never actually come on to get the oven up to
    proper temperature. It is also possible for the oven burner to light and
    heat once but never cycle back on again afterward. The heat generated
    by the ignitor may keep the oven warm for a while until it is noticed
    that the oven isn't heating 'right' any longer.

    Power must flow from the
    control system to the ignitor and through the oven valve. If there is
    any break in that circuit, the ignitor will not glow and thus the gas
    valve not open. The ignitor not glowing could be caused by the ignitor
    or the gas valve being open (infinite resistance - no continuity). If
    both have continuity (ie. at least some resistance) and the ignitor is
    still not glowing, a problem in the control system or the rest of the
    electrical circuit would need to be investigated.

    An ignitor and oven
    valve having continuity does not necessarily that they are good, just
    that they're not electrically open, which is only one way that they
    might fail. If either has NO continuity at all (ie. infinite resistance)
    they are likely defective and need to be replaced.

    Take care.


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Possible causes:

Dust particles in main line
Range not set for proper gas.
Solutions:Allow burner to operate for a few minutes until flame turns blue.
Possible causes:Pilot light not lit.

This is a normal safety feature of lighting oven pilot.
This knob requires a “Partial Push to Turn”.
Possible causes:Safety thermocouple not sensing pilot light.
Adjust flame size of pilot light.
Adjust thermocouple tip location over the pilot flame.
Possible causes:Minimum set screw on thermostat is improperly set.
Adjust minimum set screw.
Possible causes:

Minimum set screw on thermostat is improperly set.
Pilot light is too far away from burner.
Adjust minimum set screw. 
Adjust pilot location closer to oven burner.
Possible causes:Range is not set for proper gas.
Proper top pilot setting is 1/8” high. If your pilot is adjusted higher, you will experience sooting under the main top area and pilot outage.

Thanks. keep updated for any more can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010


Verify that the burners are positioned properly on the orifice hoods and the burners are sitting flat on the burner support with tabs engaged in slots. Use a small gauge wire or needle to open ports. Replace the safety valve

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

  • scott_jahnke Jul 07, 2010

    The safety valve is new, I just replaced it. The stove works fine. I am not sure how the secondary pilot should be positioned to activate thermocouple. Did you read the previous correspondence. please do?


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