Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

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I have a rm2611 fridge and the last several times out I had the hardest time keeping things cold inside. While on gas it would stay on for a while and start getting cold and then it would shut off. I had to babysit this unit all day. I finally gave up. The same seems to happen while on electric side. can you help me?

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  • arjay267 Jul 07, 2010

    The unit does start cooling down inside, but will shut off and will not start and stay running.

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Hi, if the refrigerator shut off and will not start and stay running, it means that the compressor is shutting off itself. This can either be attributed to a bad relay starter or low freon in the compressor.

Take care

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

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Hello,

  1. If the controls are working and the cooling unit is heating up in the back but there is no cooling taking place inside the box this could be a sign of a blockage in the boiler section.
  2. Another thing to look for, if you unit is not cooling but you don't smell ammonia inside the box, look for a yellow powder around or just above the burner located at the back of the unit. This would indicate a leak in the boiler section. Since this leak is outside the box you would rarely smell it inside. I see these boiler leaks more frequently in the rm2611 cooling units.
Take care.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

  • Sulaimon Jimoh Olayemi Jul 07, 2010

    Hello,

    The compressor on the unit might be defective that is why it shut off, i will advice you get the compressor on the unit replace.

    Take care.


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4 Answers

Amana fridge wont keep cold, what can I do?


I do agree with danoyachtcap on his answer however, I have another avenue for you to look at. First let me ask, is the freezer keeping things frozen but the fridge isn't keeping things cold enough? If so I would be willing to bet its one of these two most common things, your defrost timer is stuck or your fan motor on the inside has failed. Not to panic, easy fixes. Somewhere, most commonly on the inside of the fridge compartment in models made in the last 15yrs or so is where the defrost timer knob is located. Its hidden pretty well. If you look up at the top of the unit (inside fridge) you will see not a knob but a hole with a knob inside that can be turned most easily with a simple butter knife. When you turn it you will hear clicking sounds. Advance the timer VERY slowly until the fridge turns off. This will allow the unit to defrost. Ice builds up on the coils of the freezer and blocks air flow to the fridge. You wont see this ice build up as it is behind panels in the freezer. By advancing this timer you have brought on elements located on the coils that will melt the ice build up. (if the elements are good but they are usually fine. not a common thing to fail) You may have to advance the timer 2-3 times depending on how much ice has built up. Now, you may be thinking, I need to replace the timer. NOT usually. I have seen thousands simply stick because of dust build up or whatever and when you help it along, It starts working fine again. If you call out a repairman, he will replace the timer as just a liability issue as he will not take the chance of a return visit or take time to explain what he did. Remember, I am assuming that the freezer is working and fridge is not cold enough giving you this info. Other things to check that most anyone can fix is a fan motor problem. Ask yourself, is the fan BOTH behind at the compressor and the one inside working? If not, nothing fancy there, just take the fan motor out, go to a parts store and get one. Very lengthy I know, but I hope this saves you a lot of money on a costly repair that you can do yourself. Easy as pie. Good luck!

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You need to make sure that you follow the manufacturer's recommendations for using the unit with each specific power source. It's important that you have the all switches in the proper position, based on what power source you're using.

Here's the manual for your model, save a copy and print it out and take some time to review the section #3 Operating Instructions on page 6.

http://www.alcovr.com/DATA/MANUEL/DometicRefrigeratorModelsRM2191&RM2193.pdf

Hope you find this helpful and will resolve your issue.

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Turn it off. If you keep running it, it will die completely fairly soon. Please feel free to jump to the end if you don't want a fridge science lecture - it might help you figure out the problem though. When a fridge/freezer runs, the condenser (all the tubes at the back) will get warm-hot. That is where the heat goes from inside the fridge. First thing to check; is there excessive heat to remove from the fridge/freezer? Check the door seals are ok - cold air falling out of a bad door seal can make a fridge both cool and warm a room at the same time - which obviously leads to problems Check that the lights inside actually go off when you close the door by pressing the switch that the door usually presses when it shuts, and checking that the door will press the switch as far as it needs to go. Second thing; Check that there is adequate ventilation at the back - remember the ideal situation technically for a fridge is to have the bit at the back outside the house in the shade like an air-con unit. pull the fridge a bit more away from the wall and try blowing a fan onto it. Clean gently with a soft brush any dust etc that is on all the tubes at the back - it can cause an insulating coat to form. If the dust is sticky and hard to shift, then gently use a soft paintbrush and warm soapy water. Third thing; When the amount of refrigerant gas in a fridge system is getting low (they all leak a tiny bit all the time - even without any fault) two main things happen: The fridge gas has a lubricant mixed in with it that keeps the inside parts of the system oiled. when the gas is low, so is the oil and you get the same effect as running a car with no oil - runs hot, then dies. The low gas has an effect inside and outside the fridge - inside, near where the gas first enters the evaporator (the plate in the fridge that gets cold) it will get extra cold. the compressed refrigerant evaporates too quickly - easy way to explain is that there is nothing in front of it in the queue so it runs through too quick. the same thing happens in reverse when the gas goes into the condenser at the back, the gas condenses too quickly making the back very hot. I think, from what you say, that low gas is the problem. Although it is not too complicated, it is illegal for you to do it yourself in most places for environmental and safety reasons - get any fridge repair guy and he can do it and check for leaks at the same time. Hope this helps, and is in time to save your fridge :)

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