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Model nimber is blocked out for some reason. But dont try to repair a microwave unless you understand how to work with high voltages. The voltages you are dealing with here are lethal. You must discharge the capacitor before any work can be done. Generally only two parts are do most of the failures, the diodes an the large capacitor. If you do not have the proper gear to test leave it alone. The cost to repair is usually runs higher than the cost of a new microwave.
Was it just the exhaust fan that came on? If so this is normal when cooking on the stove for long period of time without the fan running. The heat builds up under the microwave and eventually activates the fan.
I had the same oven for one and a half years and had the same problem. Had the sears repairman come out and he said the magnetron burned out and needed replacing for $285. It was never under warranty with the warranty that came with oven. I couldn't believe it! We had an independent repairman look at it and he found a design flaw that causes the magnetron to blow. If you replace the matnetron (megnatron?) it will work for awhile, maybe, but then just need to be replaced again. It's cheaper to buy a new microwave. In fact, I got out our old microwave that's over 20 yrs. old and still works--just isn't as fast and as new ovens. Good luck!
simply stated.. if it fails to cook.. you may have either a bad magnetron tube ( that's the part that generates the microwave energy that cooks the food) or the filament transformer feeding that magnetron is bad. In either case.. you're probably better off replacing the entire appliance than repairing it.. Hope that helps...
Same thing happened to us. We just came back from Sears, where we bought another. Just for giggles, my wife suggested unplugging the old one and plugging it back in again. It works now. New one's going back to the store.
Code F3 indicates an open / defective thermistor / temperature sensor.
The first suspects when a microwave is not heating would be the door switches, bad connections on the magnetron terminal or bad connections on the control board.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info (as well as a text file which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems) at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk