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I want to wire a Weiss heat transfer kit up and was supplied with a Siemens Raa02/03 G3007 thermostat control but the wiring diagram wasn't with it. Can one be displayed or described to me? It has three terminals numbered 1. 3. 2. In that order plus an earth.

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elias_sgr
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SOURCE: Installing a Honeywell Programmable Thermostat with my Bryant Puron HVAC System

i hope this helps

http://www.instructionsmanuals.com/u2/pdf/termostato/Honeywell-RTH7000-fr.pdf

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

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SOURCE: Wiring diagram for Ramsond 18000 BTU Ductless

See link below for detailed wiring. I found it very helpful



http://www.ramsond.com/minisplit/wiring/detailedwire5170.pdf

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo


Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

Dec 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram for a starndard residential split a/c system. Just the outdoor section is fine.


Hi, if this is just a split standard heating and cooling unit, and not a split heat pump, all you need to do is pull stat wire from the indoor unit control board to control the condenser with 5 conductors, but you will only use 2 wires for the control of the condenser. Normally, the red and white tie to the 2 control wires of the contactor. Back at the control board, red to red and white to the Y or yellow terminal. You will also need to set your disconnect box for your high voltage near the condenser, where you will be coming from your breaker to supply high voltage to run the motors and compressor. Very easy to do. If it is a heat-pump, you will need to pull at least 8 conductor thermostat wire to wire this up. I would also need to know what terminals and kind of thermostat you have, and if you are using heat strips for second stage of heat. When you say standard unit, you will only need 2 control wires from the indoor to the outdoor unit, along with the high voltage. Please keep me posted and let me know if you need more help on this. A wiring schematic wouldn't be needed if its just a standard condenser.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

Nov 18, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Can you give me wiring diagram for honeywell thermostat RTH6300B1005-0825


http://customer.honeywell.com/TechLit/pdf/69-0000s/69-1717.pdf that is the best I can give, as wiring is dependent on the type of equipment that you are controlling with the thermostat. Be sure to cut your power supply off before you start or you'll need a new transformer and a wiring diagram for your furnace too.

Oct 25, 2009 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I want to change to a programmable thermostat my old one is 8846 and i need to have a wire diagram in order to change wire or its a lr1620 might be the model


  • Red to the thermostat RH or thermostat RC terminal with a jumper wire between thermostat RH and thermostat RC. Or Red to the thermostat R terminal which is shared with both the heating and cooling. It has an internal jumper built in to the sub-base. The red wire is the source hot wire from the transformer. All other wires, except the common wire, controls a specific relay or contactor that energizes the fan, heating, or cooling depending on the selection. The following is the common wiring colors but your system may not be common and different colors could have been used.
  • Green to the thermostat G terminal. This is the color that controls the fan or the relay that control of the blower.
  • Yellow to the thermostat Y terminal. This is for control of the air conditioning.
  • White to the thermostat W terminal. This is for control of the heating.

Here is the link you can copy and paste in your browser: They also have every other model here to:

http://highperformancehvac.com/thermostats_2.html#new_thermostat_installation

Jul 08, 2009 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

2 Answers

MY HEAT PUMP SYSTEM WILL NOT WORK IN EMERGENCY MODE


the thermostat sub base has a place to connect a wire usually white to energize the heat strips when you push the stat way hotter than the house temp. that is why the strips come on in normal heat. it also has a terminal that is only energized in emergency heat and it also should have a wire connected to it so that terminal can supply power to the strips when the stat is switched into emerg heat . you can identify the terminal from the wiring diagram and if need be jumper w2 wire over to the aux terminal and it will work. they both go back into the airhandler and power the same strips. w2..................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips or w2...jumper to aux......................................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips.

Nov 10, 2008 | Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air...

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