After approx 16 uses, I removed it from the window & stored in at the bottom of my closet. When I installed it the following summer, the unit wouldn't turn on. I checked the power etc, all fine. What could possibly have caused a basically new AC to die?

clean the coils dirt blocks air and causes freezing or fan over heat ===with a spray bottle [water little dish soap ] and unit on fan remove filter and spray the coils the fan will suck the spray through coils do not wipe the coils they bend easy and are sharp keep spraying a few times to clean it then turn back on when clean air moves better and filter light should go off

Get rid of the old stuff,too big to be used
Newer unit can't be inside the old sleeve as you call it

Just install the new unit how you see fit, to seal
it up

5000BTU is too small

A 7,200,8,000 or 10,000 BTU is the same size & about
the same price.

The best thing I can tell you is, that Danby does not recommend it. Even an extension cord is not recommended, unless it is a 14 gauge and no longer that 6 feet.

Several questioners in the past, have used a surge protect power bars and ended up frying the electronics of their AC units.

But, in the end, it's up to you.

Sounds like your compressor is not coming on, this should be a warranty issue

Mark, the two hoses serve different functions (Fresh Air Intake & Hot Air Exhaust). Therefore, they would have to remain separate. Also, Haier does not recommend extending the length of the hoses, to accommodate a specific change in installation. And yes, they can be vented through a wall to the outside. But, you would need to use something similar to a clothes dryer vent termination on the outside. Most exterior dryer vent terminations have insect screening and a flap door that opens when air from the dryer pushes it open. This would be fine for the exhaust hose, but not the Air Intake Hose. I guess if you could carefully remove the flap door. it could be used on the Air Intake hose. Also, keep in mind that the unit requires a minimum of one foot air space clearance off the back of the unit, for proper air circulation around the unit. If clothes will be hanging in this closet, that may present an air circulation issue.

Hope this helped you, please let me know. Thanks.

Factory-supplied
equipment
There is a packet of accessory parts supplied with your washer. Check that all the accessory parts supplied for your model are there. If any parts are missing contact
your dealer immediately.

Inside the drum
Water supply hose for cold water (blue marking).
Water supply hose for hot water (red marking).
Water drain hose.
A bag which contains
Covers to be placed over the holes for the transport bolts (after removing them).
Clamp for drain hose.
Wrench for levelling.
Elbow for attaching the drain hose, e.g. to a sink.
Depending on the type of connection, the following may also be required

Y-connector (can be obtained from any hardware store) in case there is only a cold water
connection available.

Any residual moisture inside the drum is due to the final testing which every washing machine
undergoes before leaving the
factory.

On the rear of the appliance
Power cord with plug.

C = cold water connection

H = hot water connection

Useful tools
The following tools are helpful

Box cutter.
Flat head screwdriver.
Closed wrench (1/2"/13mm).
Bubble level.

Dimensions
a = 27.0 inches (686 mm)
b = 30.7 inches (780 mm) c = 37.0 inches (940 mm) d = 16.0 inches (407 mm)
Door opening angle 180
Approx. weight = 220 lbs (100 kg)
Installation area

DANGER

Never ground the washer to plastic plumbing lines, gas lines or hot water pipes.

Appliance stability is important, otherwise the washing machine could "walk" during the spin
cycles.

The installation area must be solid and even. Soft floor surfaces, such as carpets or surfaces with
foam backing, are not suitable.

If the washing machine is to be installed on a weak wood floor consider the following

0 If possible, place the washing machine in a corner of the room.
0 Screw a water resistant wooden board (at least 3/4" thick) to the floor.
0 Secure the feet of the washing machine with holding brackets. Order the holding brackets (set)
from Siemens Customer
Service (WMZ 2200).

Pedestal Mounting
If mounting the washer on the Siemens pedestal (accessory
no. WZ20395) follow the instructions supplied with the pedestal.

if Install pedestal prior to removing transport bolts.

Closet
If installing the washer in a closet,
observe the minimum distances according to the following table

Minimum Installation Clearances
Closet
Sides 1/4" (6 mm) Top 12" (305 mm)
Rear 2,5" (64 mm) Front 1/4" (6 mm)
Ventilation
Top 48 sq. in (310 sq. cm),
Bottom 24 sq. in (155 sq. cm)

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheel Caliper mounting bolt Suspend the caliper from a wire Pads from the caliper support Pad retainers, if necessary
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Pad retainers, if removed Pads onto the pad retainers
   
2. Compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp. Rotate the caliper downward and install the mounting bolt. Tighten to 16-24 ft. lbs. (22-32 Nm).
3. Install the wheel.

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Rear wheel Caliper mounting bolt Suspend the caliper from a wire Pads from the caliper support Pad retainers, if necessary
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Pad retainers, if removed Pads onto the pad retainers
   
2. Compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp. Rotate the caliper downward and install the mounting bolt. Tighten to 16-24 ft. lbs. (22-32 Nm).
3. Install the wheel.

Typical due to humidity. Is there a pan on the bottom to collect the condensate. It may have a clogged drain.

Window Regulators and Motors - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

NOTE Some window regulators are retained at least in part, by heavy-duty pull rivets. To remove these rivets, the center mandrel must be pushed through with a small punch, and the rivet(s) drilled out with a 3 / 16 inch drill bit. The factory recommended repair requires the use of the same quality of heavy-duty pull rivet.
Front
CHEVROLET



Fig. Typical W-Body power window regulator and bolt tightening sequence



Fig. Chevrolet models use a cross-arm type window regulator
Coupe and sedan front doors use a cross arm regulator. The following procedures are required for removal and replacement of both power and manual window regulators.

1. Remove the door trim panel, as outlined in this section.
2. Remove the plastic sheet water deflector and the energy absorber (foam pad).
3. Remove the door window. Please see Door Window Glass, Removal and Installation in this section.
4. Detach the electrical connector, if equipped.
5. Remove the window regulator bolts and the regulator cam nut.
6. Drill out and remove the pull rivets.
7. Remove the window regulator cam bolt.
8. Remove the window regulator from the vehicle.

CAUTION Do not attempt to service the window regulator motor separately. It is part of the window regulator. The regulator lift arm is under tension from the counterbalance spring and can cause personal injury if the motor is removed from the regulator. The door window regulator cannot be serviced separately. If defective, replace the regulator and motor as an assembly.
To install:

1. Position the regulator by inserting the bottom through the access opening in the door, then rotate the top of the regulator through the opening while lowering the regulator to clear the top of the access opening. Align the holes in the regulator with holes in the door inner panel.
2. Install the door window regulator bolts and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
3. Install new pull rivets. Install the upper left rivet first, followed by the lower right rivet.
4. Install the door window regulator cam bolt and cam nut and tighten both to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
5. Attach the electrical connector, if equipped with power windows.
6. Install the door window. Please see Door Window Glass, Removal and Installation in this section.
7. Install the energy absorber (foam pad) and reposition the plastic sheet water deflector.
8. Install the door trim panel, as outlined in this section.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Remove the black vinyl trim from the edge of the glass. Remove broken glass & urethane adhesive from the metal pinchweld leaving a thin layer (approx 1/16") of urethane for new new urethane to adhere to. Vacuum broken glass. Prime nicks to the metal to protect from rusting (also insuring a good surface to bond to). Attach vinyl reveal molding to glass (unless it's a "T" shaped push in type - it would install after the glass is set). Clean and prime the replacement glass. Apply new urethane adhesive. Set glass in place.Slide the metal joint cover in place on the molding (at bottom in the center). Clean outer surface of glass. Allow for safe drive away as noted by urethane manufacturer.