Question about Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with In-Door-Ice Dispensing System

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We had a power cut which meant the appliance stopped working. When supply was re-connected it showed wrong temperature numbers which we could not change. I tried switching the appliance off as sometimes this actions a reset and now it will not switch on at all. There is a small blue light on under the word "freezer" but not buttons have any effect when pressed. Derek Thomas

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HI. During a power outage, there will be a surge. When the surge occurs, it will send a pulse to any unprotected device that may be plugged into the home electrical system. The most vulnerable device will be your refrigerator units(The PCB's are usually unprotected). There is a main control board mounted near your compressor assembly(Usually mounted on a bracket near the assembly or behind an access panel). This board will, essentially, be the recipient of this power spike, thus, causing the entire board to fail. This board is basically the brain of the unit. It routs all power to the two running fans and to the main control panel and other power controlled parts in this particular unit. Your compressor has a protector called the overload start relay switch. This is a switch and a overload protector, as well. The compressor should be ok, but your main PCB should be inspected for burn markings at the mounted relays and jumper sections. Your symptoms are a strong indication of board failure, so even if the board doesn't show visible trauma markings, I would recommend to have it replaced, asap. It is damaged.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 06, 2010

    • Replacing the main board will correct this issue.



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Related Questions:

1 Answer

What does F1 mean

The Fault Code/s will show up in the appliance Display
F0 - No Alarm Signal
Replace Main Electronic Control
F1 - Door will not Lock
Check door lock. Is Door Lock Getting Power
F2 - Door will not Un-Lock
Check door lock. Is Door Lock Getting Power Supply? Check Control Thermostat
F3 - Self Test Error
Disconnect Appliance from Mains Supply, Wait 5 Minutes and then Reconnect to Mains Supply
F4 - Shorted or Open Circuit Oven Temperature Sensor
Replace Oven Temperature Sensor, Check Sensor Harness Connection between Sensor and Control Unit
F5 - Relay Contacts Failed - Sticking
Replace Main Electronic Control
F6 - Power Board Temperature Too High
Check Correctly Installed, Check Cooling Fan Assembly, Ducting and Airways
F7 - Incorrect Polarity - Mains Supply
Check Mains Connection - Live & Neutral round the wrong way
F8 - Power Supply to Interface Problem
Check Wiring Harness, Replace Main Electronic Control
F9 - Procesor is Auto Resetting
Disconnect Appliance from Mains Supply, Wait 5 Minutes and then Reconnect to Mains Supply

Apr 05, 2015 | Electrolux White Westinghouse Stove Range...

3 Answers

Cannot turn the oven on

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Feb 17, 2015 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

NEFF B4562 Oven LED display just stopped working during use yesterday. Oven still works but have to guess what programme I am using. any ideas on fixing it without the Neff 100pounds call out fee and...

Preparing the units - Fig. 1
? The safe operation of this appliance can only be guaranteed if
it has been installed to a professional standard in accordance
with these installation instructions. The installer is liable for
damage incurred as a result of incorrect installation.
? Fitted units must be heat-resistant up to 90 °C, and
neighbouring unit fronts up to 70 °C.
? Cut-out work on the units and worktop should be performed
before fitting the appliances. Remove any shavings or the
function of the electrical components may be impaired.
? Caution during installation. Parts that are accessible during
installation may have sharp edges. Wear protective gloves to
prevent cuts
? The power socket for the appliance must either be located in
the hatched area B or else away from the installation space.
? A gap of 5 mm is required between the appliance and
surrounding unit fronts.
? Secure freestanding units to the wall using a standard bracket
Appliance under the worktop - Fig. 1
There must be a ventilation cut-out made in the intermediate
floor of the surround unit.
Secure the worktop to the fitted units.
If a fitted oven is to be built in under a hob, pay attention to the
hob installation instructions.
Appliance in a tall unit - Fig. 2
The appliance may also be installed in a tall unit.
There must be a gap between the intermediate floors and the
mounting wall of approx. 20 mm in order to provide ventilation
to the oven.
Only fit the appliance at a height where removing baking trays
does not present a problem.
Corner installation ­ Fig. 3
To ensure that the appliance door can be opened in the case of
corner installation, take account of dimension D. Dimension E is
dependent on the thickness of the unit front under the handle.
Connecting the appliance to the power supply
Only allow a licenced professional to connect the appliance.
National regulations apply as well as those of the local electricity
The appliance must be disconnected from the power supply for
all installation work.
The appliance corresponds to protection class I and may only
be operated with a protective earth connection.
Power cord: Type H05 VV­F or higher rated. The yellow/green
wire for the PE connection must be 10 mm longer than the other
wires on the appliance side.
During installation, an all-pole isolating switch with a contact gap
of at least 3 mm must be present, or the appliance must be
connected via a three-pin earthed plug. This must be accessible
after installation.
Contact protection must be ensured by the installation.
Identify the phase and neutral conductors in the socket.
Incorrect connection may cause damage to the appliance.
Only connect as per the connection diagram. See the rating
plate for the voltage.
Position the appliance in front of the units in readiness for
connection. The connecting cable must be sufficiently long.
Securing the appliance ­ Fig. 4
? Fully insert the appliance and centre it.
? Screw the appliance into place.
? The gap between the worktop and the appliance must not be
closed by additional battens.
Disconnect the appliance from the power supply. Undo the
securing screws. Raise the appliance slightly and pull it out

the only contact info that I found is the info below:

Dec 08, 2014 | Neff Ovens

1 Answer

I have two Bosch fridges. I just bought this house and there is nothing in either fridge. Worked day we took possession of home, but both stopped working. They have power just won't cool.

Bosch is a high end manufacturer of appliances. Occasionally things can go wrong, such as fluctuations in temperature. Bosch's policy is to charge for calls to customer service advice, even when the appliance is still under warranty, so it's worth trying these troubleshooting steps before making the call. Bosch refrigerators also have an appliance self-test which you can run.
    • 1 Check that the plug is inserted into the household power outlet at the wall. If there's no text displayed on the display panel, it is because there is no power to the fridge.
    • 2 Make sure that the door hasn't been left open if the warning signal sounds. The warning signal means the temperature is rising, and frozen food can be at risk. Visually inspect that the ventilation openings aren't covered by household objects, debris or dirt. Press the "Alarm Off" button to switch off the alarm.
  • 3 Ensure that the temperature controls are set correctly if the fridge or freezer compartments get too cold.
  • 4 Check that the water supply is on if the ice-maker isn't producing ice. Test the water supply by using the water dispenser on the door. If "IWD Off" is displayed on the panel, the ice and water are supplies are off and need to be turned on again.
  • 5 Press the "Condensation Heating" switch near the ice dispenser and water outlet on the door if condensation forms on the outside of the refrigerator. If the environment around the refrigerator is too humid, the appliance can compensate for that.
  • 6 Run the self-test program to identify major faults. Switch the refrigerator off and wait five minutes. Switch the refrigerator on again. Press the "Select" and "Options" buttons at the same time for five seconds. The self-test will commence. Keep an eye on the display. "E" indicates a fault which needs reporting to customer service. The number in the US is 1-800-944-2904.
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    1 Answer

    Why my fridge freezer keeps beeping four hort beeps

    Temperature alarm
    If the temperature becomes too warm, an alarm will sound and the temperature display will flash. The temperature the appliance is set at will determine when the alarm is triggered.
    The alarm will sound and the display will flash under the following conditions:

    • - whenevertoomuchwarmairflows into the appliance, for example when food is being loaded, re-arranged, or taken out.
    • - wheneverlargeamountsoffoodare being frozen at once.
    • - whenevertherehasbeenalengthy interruption of the power supply. Door alarm
      If the appliance door is left open for longer than approx. 60 seconds, the alarm signal will sound.

    Switching the alarm system ON
    The alarm system is always active. It does not need to be switched on manually.
    Switching the alarm OFF early
    Once the set temperature has been reached in the freezer section, the alarm signal stops and the temperature display stops blinking. If the alarm signal bothers you, it can be switched off early.
    ^ Press the alarm off button. The alarm signal will stop. The temperature display will continue to blink until the set temperature has been reached. The display then stops blinking, and shows a steady reading. At this point, the alarm system is ready again if needed.

    Aug 15, 2014 | Miele KFN12923 SD-2 Fridge Freezer, A...

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    Outdoor unit fan always runs even when indoor unit is off. I have disconnected all control wires from the headunit (at the outdoor end to rule out faulty signalling). The fan runs all the time, with just...

    I have had this problem with a Fujitsu unit before. If the power is supplied to the outdoor unit first but unit is meant to have power supplied to indoor unit first, outdoor will only stop when power is cut off! In that case, you will have to run the power cable to the indoor unit first and then connect from appropriate terminal back to outdoor unit. (Often the indoor will stop outdoor unit by just cutting the power to it via use of a relay on the pcb.)

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    Since we had a new consumer unit with trip switches fitted with 100DP isolator and 30mA RCD, our Smeg 90cm Duel fuel cooker trips it when the main oven is on. The top oven and grill work fine, but as soon...

    Someone should check the current draw by the appliance. Then compare it with the name plate to determine if the problem is with the appliance or external power supply.

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