Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
“F20” on display
(Water Inlet Problem—no water or insufficient
water supply) Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle
Unplug washer or disconnect power. Check the following: Are water faucets completely turned on?
Are screens at inlet hose connection to washer
clogged? Are water inlet hoses kinked? Are water inlet hoses frozen?
Do rate the solution.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
I just bought this washer and had two problems with it. 1 the vibration at medium spins and 2. a squeeking spring (every time the drum rotates a little squeek, but when spinning the squeek sounds constant.
What I discover in solving both my problems with the same solution. I had to ensure all 4 feet well on the ground and that the top of the washer was perfectly level. At one time I was out only about 2 mm on one side, but the bubble was slightly to one side on the level but still in between the level's markers. I tested with a load, and both problems were still there. Turn feet 1/2 turn on the side needing adjusting. Ran another load and you guessed it, no squeak, no vibration, spinning was quiet, I had to go over to check to see if the machine was going through the cycles. I couldn't believe that a few millimeters could make such a difference.
Now I am pleased with the performance, not to mention how clean the clothes are and the savings on water and drying.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
The noise could be caused by the main bearing going out in the rear outer tub that the inner basket is supported by. This is a expensive repair and a complete tear down of the unit. If you want to make sure of a noise you have to run unit partially disassenble (with top and or back off) and listen.
Keep kids away when you do this.
if it makes the same noise when in agitation it might only be a stretched belt.
Taking the front lower panel off gives you access to the pump if you want to listen to that
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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