Question about Whirlpool 18.2 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator ET18PKXG
Whirlpool EDT-202ZK No Frost freezer on top fridge at least 10 years old quit running. Light comes on but no fan, no condenser sounds. When I move the interior temp/off switch from off to on it clicks but nothing happens. What can I do to fix this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fridge/freezer not cool.
Welcome to fixya.
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,
I believe your problem is an old thermostat or compressor !
How old is it?
My advice is do not put good money into bad!
A new fridge will pay for itself in a few years by using a lot less electricity!
Here is an interesting report I just read!
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator
It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please remember to leave me a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
SOURCE: freezer cold but not fridge
too much ice bulid up will stop enough cold air being blown into the fridge.Try turning it off letting all ice melt then turn it back on again and set thermostat at a lower temp.There may be ice you can't see.
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
� If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
� If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
Modern refrigerators are designed to self defrost and it is essential to the airflow to have an evaporator coil that is clear for air movement. If the rear interior panel of the freezer has frost appearing, it is most likely a defrost problem and must be corrected before temperatures can be restored to normal. Your refrigerator most likely has a defrost timer located on bottom behind grate, or inside behind control panel. Could you find the correct model number so I can help you better. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Look at following areas for the model number
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
You have a problem with the defrost timer.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
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