Question about Kenmore 24082 Top Load Washer
Happened about six times now. Repairman always changes the motor. Warrantee has expired so Im trying to fix it myself. The machine is a Kenmore Calypso Model 110.24082200 Type 170 with AVS motor.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is usually a symptom of a bad motor control board which located under the console. I had the same problem. You can open the console by removing the three screws in the back and lifting from the rear first. The console will pop off. In addition, if you look along washer top front edge in the seam there is a retaining clip about 2 inches in from each side. Using a putty knife, push in on each clip while lifting and the top should pop up. There will be a tech sheet affixed to the front wall of the washer between the wash tub and case. This tech sheet will give you all the guidance necessary on how to perform tests to prove whether or not the motor controller is at fault, or if the pump is at fault. I believe you may have a motor controller problem, though. Another possibility is getting something caught in the drain pump reservoir. This could binding the pump. Let me know if any of this is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 16, 2007
make sure your pump is not clogged or jammed..that will stop the motor,,quick test,,pull pump off and start unit in wash,,or spin if unit is empty..onthejob
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
with the machine off, turn the cycle dial around 3x very harshly, then try it again. If it works normally now, you'll need a new cycle switch soon!
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
try it just on cold water let run,turn off if water stops it not the water valve,do the same thing on hot,if either one does not turn off it is the water valve,if they both turn off then you need to check the water level hose from the switch to the tube,if both ends are secure then the water lelvel switch is bad,let me know what you find-mike
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.
If you cannot hear the motor running, the initial thoughts are either the timer or (with some later model washers) the Lid Switch.
In order to eliminate the lid switch as the problem,
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If you can hear the motor trying to turn, the next place to look is the Motor Coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
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