Question about Olympus FE-220 Digital Camera

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Power problem I was charging camera using 4.5 DC volt socket on Camera, next I switch on camera so Lens head came out, accidentally power pin came off from camera and lens will not go back. Now nothing happening to camera when power cord connected or with battery, camera will not switch on at all including power lite does not come on with power cord connected. Look like it may have blown fuse in camera or something else serious. Any solution which I can try? I'm a very handy man with good tools. ken

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  • samscat Jul 17, 2008

    The battery went dead and the lens stayed out. I charged the battery and now I get no response from the camera. I have had the camera for about 7 weeks. I thought maybe I needed to charge it with the wall charger also (don't know why I would) .

    Do I need to send it to the manufacturer?



    Thanks,



    Cat

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I sounds like coincidently something in the camera failed. I doubt very much that simply pulling the power from the camera would cause damage.

In anycase, if you were to open the camera, you would see that all the circuit boards are high density multi-layered boards. Some of these boards are flexable boards that are built up on a strip of mylar with embeded components. These are not able to be serviced. The camera is normaly serviced by circuit board and mechanical parts changing.

Speaking about a fuse, if you ever saw a surface mount fuse, some of these are about 0.8 mm to 1.5 mm long by about 0.6 to about 1 mm wide. There are no lead wires on these parts. They are directly surface soldered to the board. There could be hundreds or maybe thousands of parts on these boards that are in this size range. Many of these boards are in multy layers with parts like this on both sides. Some of the IC's and devices have surface lead contacts that are spaced 1/50 to 1/100 inch apart depending on the device specs.

Jerry G.

Posted on Apr 18, 2008

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2 Answers

I have a 6000 watt allpower generator that the 12 volt breaker poped out reset it still no power replaced the avr ran for about 5 seconds then poped the 12 volt breaker again what could it be


Barry,

The 12v system does not go through the AVR. It most likely is the Battery Charging Rectifier has failed. This controls the voltage from the 12v feed from the alternator and charges the battery.

1) Follow the wiring from the 12v socket/connectors until you come to a Block rectifier. It will be held on by a bolt in the center and have 4 wires connected to it. If you look at the pins you will see one is seated at a different angle to the others. Test the feed to this pin, you should get a result of between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.
If you are not getting these results then the Block rectifier has blown and will need replacing. http://www.generatorguru.com/rectifier-98406168/

2) If all is testing fine above, then you will need to test the Battery Charging Rectifier as you have an Electric Start and Battery on your unit. This is a metal block located on the back of the engine, next to the starter motor and it has fins running across it. ( to see an example of this part look up your generator on this page http://www.generatorguru.com/all-power/) Again this should be giving you between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.

3) Next,check the voltage going into the Battery Charging Rectifier from the alternator. You should get between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.

For replacement parts please see our web page. You will need the full model number to do this.:

http://www.generatorguru.com/all-power

Dec 06, 2016 | Allpower Electrical Supplies

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Battery and or charger won't work. Charged a full 18 hrs. Help


Possible suspects are:
1. A severely drained battery.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.

Nov 27, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

My camera will not turn on when I slide the lens cover switch and will not charge when plugged in.


When the battery is empty, you can't switch on the camera. Why does it not charge?
Could be the switch behind the lens cover does not work correct or not at all. Could be the power cord is not ok. Or the socket where the cord goes into the camera.
Can you try to charge the camera on an external charger and when it is charged, try switching on again.

Feb 13, 2014 | Optimus DS-5080 Digital Camera

2 Answers

Front panel connectors


Black or white is negative, color is positive. Pin 1 is usually positive.

Also, If you look closely at the plastic plug, there *should* be a tiny triangle/arrow....that's the "+".

May 18, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Whereis the fuse on a hp 523n pc


None to my knowledge tonytegroce.

If there were one it would be at the back of the Power Supply in a fuse holder, or inside the Power Supply's case.

Power supply should be rated at a maximum wattage of 200 Watts, and is probably made by Bestec, HiPro, or Delta.
(Actual maximum wattage is more like 60 to 70 percent of what is stated. 120 Watts to 140 Watts)

{ NOTE*
I Do Not recommend opening the Power Supply. Inside the Power Supply are Electrolytic Capacitors.

Electrolytic Capacitors are designed to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once.
Rough comparison is a large swimming pool filled up by a garden hose, then one wall is taken down all at once.

Electrolytic Capacitors can hold a charge for Weeks, Months, sometimes over a year, when power to them has been removed. (In this case; Power Supply unplugged from power)

IF, your fingers touch the two terminals on the bottom of a capacitor, the charge can be released to YOU.
IF, your fingers complete a circuit, that one or more capacitors are in, the charge can be released to YOU }


If the computer does not come on when you push the Power On button:

1) Check to see if the surge protector has power. Is the Power On LED light lit?

Next check to see if THAT receptacle in the surge protector, has power. The receptacle in the surge protector that the computer is plugged into.
You can use a table lamp, for one, to test.

I have had 4 surge protectors now, that just THE receptacle the computer was plugged into, had NO power.
Everything else had power. Monitors, router, sound system, printer, etc.


Sure that the computer is receiving power?
2) Perform the test to see if the Power On switch is bad, or the Power Supply.

{The Power On switch is an ATX power on switch. It is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly.

Example of an ATX Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html }

The test is to bypass the Power On switch. It does not involve the Power On switch, or the pins on the motherboard that it connects to.

A jumper wire is used on the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.
This is an example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

This is an illustration, and photo of the FIC AM35 motherboard, used in the HP Pavilion 523n Desktop PC,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07899&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=90387

Scroll the page down. Illustration is first, photo second.

Motherboard sitting as it is in your computer; Processor to the top, and Ram Memory slots to the right, the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector on the motherboard, is to the Right of the ram memory slots.

In the illustration it is labeled - ATX Power Connector

In the photo it is to the right of the long Black ram memory slots, and is a whitish/yellow connector with two columns of 10 squarish socket holes.

Referring back to the example of the 20-pin ATX main power connector;

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Observe the photo all the way to the right. The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard. This is the way it should be for the test.

A jumper wire is used to temporarily connect the Green wire, to ANY Black wire.
The Green wire you see is a Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.

ALL of the Black wires you see are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip. It's small size, and stiffness is ideal for this application.
The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.

The middle of the U-shape is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape.
This area is for your fingers to hold onto.

The 'legs' of the U-shape is inserted down into the socket holes of the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

The paper clip's 'legs' are inserted down into the socket holes, in the Back of the ATX main power cable connector.
The Back is where the wires go in.

The legs MUST be inserted down into the socket hole pretty far.
At the bottom of every wire going into the connector, is a metal terminal. (Female)
The legs of the paper clip MUST touch those metal terminals.

The legs go down in the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole.
One leg goes down in a socket hole with the GREEN wire, the other leg goes down in ANY socket hole with a Black wire.

The contact period made is No longer than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

IF the computer (Power Supply) comes on, the Power On switch is bad.

IF the computer (Power Supply) Does Not come on, the problem is a bad Power Supply.

Shock Warning:

The Soft Power On circuit uses 5 Volts DC.
Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

There may, or may not be a spark when you touch the jumper wire.
If it makes you feel more comfortable, you may wish to wear a glove on the hand that uses the jumper wire. (Paper clip)

{Note*
One single wrap of black plastic electrical tape will insulate you from 600 Volts DC }

Post back in a Comment as to your findings after the test.

Regards,
joecoolvette

{Added note*
The harmful voltages are inside the Power Supply's case.
The Power Supply converts AC voltage into DC voltage.

(USA - 120 Volts AC
Europe - 220 Volts AC
Australia - 220 Volts AC
Japan - 100 Volts AC)

The DC voltages that the computer uses is.
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

Inside the computer are very low DC voltages }

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1 Answer

I have an old Canon TV zoom lense J10X10REA(DC) 10-100mm 1:2.3 This motorised lens is controlled by a 4 pin plug with 4 wires (red, black, white, green) leading into the internal motor control circuit...


You can test the motor connections using two c batteries in series (3v). Simply connect any two pins with the + and - ends of the batteries. Watch the pins position, which motor and direction of the motor operation. Make a chart of the polarity and the pins used. Go ahead and use it. most of these motors use less than 4 volts to move.

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1 Answer

Camera doesnt allow me to take photos, lense keeps going in/out


this is most likley one of two things. If you are using a rechargeble battery - it is not keeping a charge. When the camera detects low power it will usually shut itself down drawing in the lens for protection and shutting down. If the battery is gone passed it's time it will not take a proper charge. You will need to replace the battery.
Alternatively you may have a dodgy mechanism - some dirt or even internal component may be broken - in your zoom lens. If the lens cannot extend correctly the camera will automatically retract and power down so as not to cause further damage - for example you camera gets accidentally switched on whilst in the case, and the lens cannot come out.... bring it in for repair.

I know not a solution but hope it helps.
Regards
Thomas

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2 Answers

I GOT A SAMSUNG SOD14C , OKAY I WANT IT TO CONNECT TO A DVR WITH BNC INPUTS, BUT.. MY CAMERA USES RJ11E WICH NUMBER OF THE RJ11 JACK BELONGS TO POWER, VIDEO AND AUDIO?? SO I CAN RECONNET?


I salvaged an SOD14C and found this out by playing around with it.

the 6 pin RJ11 is wired as follows, holding the cable, connector up, cable hanging down with the pins facing you the pins count from left to right.
Pin 1 is green it is the Microphone +
Pin 2 is red it is the +12 Volts DC
Pin 3 is yellow it is the Speaker +
Pin 4 is the bare copper shield it is the common (-12 Volts DC, Microphone -, and Video -)
Pin 5 is whitish clear it is the Video +
Pin 6 is black it is the Speaker - got-samsung-sod14c-okay-want-connect-kkfjmd05sw3quyoyjvycjykz-5-0.jpg
Hope this helps!

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AC Power Supply for Metz 45 ct5


Hi daf4,

I have a circuit diagram for the 45CT-5 and the flash unit as well. The voltage is 360V DC, which goes straight across the flash tube. The top pin is positive, when the notch in the socket is on the right hand side, i.e. towards the back of the flash.

I'm also looking for a circuit diagram for a 45CL-4, if you know anyone who has one.

Regards,

Neil

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