About the green blinking problem,you are saying that if the caps are good or look good the e2p board is the only one can cause green blinking problem. whats your experience fixing this chassis or boards.and im asking this after replacing caps in fmt,power supply and dm board.unpluging card reader etc. model WD 62825
I am also a member of the WD-62725 blinking green light club. I replaced all twelve of the caps I found with higher rated ones and the blinking light problem did not go away completely but I could get the TV synced in 5 or less cycles...for a while. I finally put the TV on an UPS and it did pretty good for about a year until, for some reason, my wife muting the TV would send it into a blue screen and then the dreaded blinking green light of death. I had collected a lot of forum notes and bought the manual (virtually useless) and remembered a post where a guy put a switch on the orange power wire going to the "board to the right of the DM board," as he described it.
This was the last attempt for me so I tried it. The board's name is the FMT PWB and on his WD-62825 and my WD-62725 it is the right most board, looking from the rear. Coming off of the top of the board towards the back of the set is a 4 wire connector with one of the wires being orange. Cut that wire and splice 12" long extensions to each leg. Reassemble the TV with these two new wires hanging out the back. Solder an on off switch to these leads. I used and old PC power switch because it had large "On" and "Off" labels on it. I then screwed it to a hole in back with a 1" stand off. Its not pretty but functional. Now turn your new switch off and plug the set in. If it behaves like mine it will blink green for about a minute and then go off. Now turn the new switch to the on position and you are ready to turn on your set. I hope this helps. If it does give me some feedback at rocky_beech(at)yahoo.com. I only need mine to last two more years and my house will be paid for and then I will get the best I can afford. I hope they still have plasmas by then.
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Re: wd62825 blinking green light
If you have replaced the caps on the DM and the FMT and power supply. you can unplug the e2p. the set will run without it if it is the problem, however it will take 5 to 10 minutes to boot up so be patient. if it boots try turning it on. the picture should look terrible because no light engine data is getting to the dm. chances are it is not the e2p, in the over 300 of these chassis i have repaired maybe 10 had a bad e2p. most likely the chassis needs to be rebuilt. check out www.tv-techs.com
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Most likely a wire plug connection between the boards or where you unplugged one, as the code 12 means there isnt any errors with the set, so its almost certainly a wire connection double check the ribbon cables extra good.
this means the DM board is not booting up. You will typically need 4-8 capacitors to fix this issue. you have to pull out the board and solder in new parts. let me know if you feel skilled enough to do this and I can give directions. The caps will usually bulge at the tops and are 1000uf .. mitsubishi recommends replacing with 680uf 16v caps..
Either bad capacitors -vented - on power supply board or bad E2P eprom board on DM board.Probably the capacitors-4-1000Ufd and 2-3300ufd.You should get expert help from reputable tv shop.Not really do it yourself fix either way.
You have a common problem in the DM (Digital Module), more specifically the DM power supply. There are four electrolytic caps in that supply 16v/1000uf that are bad and likely buldged from heat stress. Replacing these caps and the E2P module, a small stand-up board further back on the main DM board should restore normal operation...
You might be lucky enough to have a tech come out and simply replace those caps in-home. It's not a really big job for a qualified tech.
Hope this helps!
The caps you're describing are in the power supply of the DM and a very common problem. Another problem in that same box is the E2P module. The E2P is a small board towards the rear of the module plugged into the module with a multi-pin connector. Unplug the E2p and re-install the DM and see if the unit powers up... If it does the picture won't look very good but at least you'll know if the E2P is keeping it down.. If it still won't power you've eliminated the E2P as a porblem.
Next let's take a look at the error code for some clues. This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the device and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source)
Then, let me know what you find...
The WD62825 has a Digital Module located on the left side of the chassis looking at it from the rear of the set. It's housed in a metal box that can slide out of its holder after removing the trim screws.
The module has its own power supply board and there are a group of 16v/1000uf caps on that board which commonly fail causing the constant flashing standby light. Further back on the module is a small board about the size of a matchbook called the E2P module. Its SMT (Surface Mount Technology) caps also commonly fail which can cause the same symptoms. Techs can tell whether the E2P has failed by simply removing it, hooking the DM back up and trying to power the set. If it powers on the picture won't be much good - but at least you can tell what's keeping it down...
Back to the caps on the pwr board. If they've failed they usually will buldge visibly on top. And ESR is almost not necessary. In any event that's the nuts and bolts on this model.
Is it a job for a layman? Yes and no - you might strongly consider a tech if you don't feel comfortable removing all the connections that the DM has with the signal board. There are about six - multi-pin - wired connections to unplug and then sliding the DM out of the unit and carefully removing the screws and latching to take the DM top cover off...
Hope this helps.