Replace door seal miele novotonic w 502
It's been awhile for me since I have done this so I searched on the internet and found the following. The instructions are pretty detailed. You may want to contact Miele if any problems
1. Open the machine door.
2. Turn the main power off and unplug the machine from the wall.
3. Completely remove the powder dispenser drawer (it will come out so
far (and stop), then there is a small button at the rear of the
dispenser which you need to depress to remove it fully, you'll see this
button once you've withdrawn the drawer to its stop position.
5. Undo and remove the 3 x hexagonal head bolts surrounding the door
seal (they are at approximately the 2, 6 and 10 o'clock positions).
Note these bolts actually secure the front panel to the machine
chassis, they do not retain the door seal. Don't worry the front will
not drop off.
6. Now look at the aperture of the powder dispenser drawer (you have of
course removed the actual drawer earlier). Locate the lower left hand
corner of the aperture, and you'll see a recessed philips head screw in
a hole. Undo and remove that screw.
7. Now, you'll need to get on your hands and knees. You DO NOT need to
tilt, or lift up the washing machine to do the next bit. Locate the
underside of the front panel right at the bottom. You'll notice that it
sticks out about half an inch or so and is proud of what I would call
the kick plate which extends right down to the floor. You need to look
on the underside of the front panel, about an inch or so in from the
left hand edge. There you will see a spring loaded clip which when
closed is located within a slot on the underside of the front panel.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, you need to carefully lever the spring
clip open whilst gently pulling the whole front panel (from the left
side) ajar. It will just suddenly pop out once you've done it.
8. Open the pump access door lower left hand side of the front panel)
and unclip the drain tube from its plastic retaining clip.
9. Now carefully swing open the whole front panel, it opens like a door
(hinged on the right hand side). It might be a little stiff as there
are a whost of leads attached to it, but it is designed to open fully
(with the leads attached) to about 90 degrees.
10. Next, unseat the rubber door seal from around the door opening area
(on the chassis, not the front panel, obvioulsy), so that the seal the
flops away from the chassis and lies just inside the machine.
11. You will notice that there is a thin steel band holding the door
seal in place around the drum. On the right hand side (at about the 3
o'clock position), you'ss see a tensioning screw for the band. With a
flat bladed screwdriver undo this completely and remove the screw (it
is accessible from above with a long screwdriver). Be aware that there
is 1 x washer and 1 x 'nut' type fitting that will fall out when you
remove the screw. Locate these and retain them for later.
12. Now extend the steel band to its maximum opening (by moving the 2 x lugs apart where the now removed screw was).
13. You can now remove the steel band. Then pull it out through the hole/door aperture in the chassis.
14. Locate the small rubber tag at about the 12 o'clock position where
the seal is attached to the drum and tug it. The seal will then come
away from the drum. Remove the old seal completely.
15. Using your new seal, place this correctly around the drum (there is
a lip on the seal and this has to go over the lip on the drum.
Remember, the seal goes on the OUTSIDE of the drum. Ensure the 'tag' is
at the 12 o'clock position.
16. Reassembly is then the reverse of removal.
17. Make sure that you do up the retaining steel band sufficiently and
that you correctly locate the sela on the chassis front panel (there is
a groove in the seal which will locate the seal in the aperture).
18. Finally, once you're done, put the machine through a few rinse
cycles (where the water level is high) and look for leaks. If you have
a leak, it is likely that your door seal has a rip/tear, or that it has
not been correctly located around the drum - in which case you'll need
Sep 17, 2009 |
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