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if u can run it on delicate or fluff cycle with cool air more than likely its ur cycling thermostat or the hi limit thermostat going defective test it with a meter for ohms..
1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.
2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.
Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot or not heat at all. . If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT DEFECTIVE? SHOULD SHOW OHMS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE
Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.
Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.
Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.
When you say too long I assume the dryer does heat simple trick disconnect exhaust tube from dryer at bottom run a cycle room will get hot if dryer drys correctly then you have a restriction in the exhaust, dryer has to be able to breath just like a muffler on a car a restriction will cause the heat circuit of the dryer to cycle on/off on the hi limit instead of the cycling thermistor which will give you a long dry time hope this helps
2 things are needed to dry clothes. 1 is good air flow. Check to make sure that the dryer vent is not clogged or partially clogged with lint. Also make sure there are no kinks in the vent hose. With the dryer running you should feel good air flow blowing out of the outside house vent. The 2nd thing a dryer needs heat. Check to see that the dryer feels warm to hot when you reach in to tough the clothes. It is possible that the heat element has partially failed. Another thing to investigate is how well the laundry machine is spinning out the water in the spin cycle. This spin cycle is used to get as much water out as possible prior to placing the clothes in the dryer. The wetter the clothes when they come out of the laundry, the longer it takes to dry them.
Your exhaust vent is blocked.
Timed dry is High heat.
Permanent press is a medium heat and intermittent.
The dryer does not get as hot as often in Permanent press mode. Therefore the fuse does not reach critacal and blow.
Remove the vent at the rear of the dryer and run a timed load.
If it dries correctly, repair your vent blockage.
If not, repost and I will lead you to the next step.
Most common cause of this is a clogged venting going to the outside to test this remove the vent from the back of the dryer and run a load if it drys ok them you know you have a venting issue and will need to be cleaned out if not plz repost and we can look deeper into it