Question about Refrigerators

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Electrolux EW28BS71IS standard depth refrigerator is not making ice (its just like the EW23BC71IS which is counter depth). I've only gotten this to make Ice a few times when I first got it (used). Unfortunately the ice started melting shortly afterwords and the water dripped out of the ice dispenser port. Since then it's not really even attempting to make ice (has only made two random batches of ice since then). I have verified the bale/harvester is okay and in the correct position. I have the wave-touch display set to make ice. I have also tried another wave-touch control board/display and it didn't seem to help. What I "believe" is happening is the fan that blows cold air (not sure if it comes from the freezer or its own unit) is not turning on. So it's just refrigerator temperature in the ice compartment area. I also believe there is a thermistor on the ice cup/row and it only will fill with water once the metal cup is up to temperature which obviously wouldn't be happening either. This is purely hypothetical as I dont know much about this refrigerator, but seems likely based on viewing the mechanics. I'm not sure where to look next. Any clues, diagrams, wiring charts (that are readable, e.g. NOT the crappy sears parts ones), or input from someone more knowledgeable then me would be GREATLY appreciated!

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  • coworker26 Jul 06, 2010

    Where could I find an Electrolux field service manual on this?

  • coworker26 Jul 08, 2010

    I was able to verify that for some reason the icebox area was not getting cold enough to trip the thermistor with the freezer set at 0 degrees. I bumped it down to -2 and it's worked fine ever since.

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You will need to check each of these two areas if your icemaker is not making ice:

WATER INLET VALVE
Your icemaker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.

An icemaker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.

Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.


DEFROST THERMOSTAT
It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting.

Or your icemaker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.


About the tests, check this referential guide steps...

For testing an icemaker water inlet valve, before you begin to test your icemaker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box. Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test:
1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.
6. If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.




Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, keep in mind disconnect the appliance's power supply. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box:
1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.


Try it and tell us news.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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If the fan is not blowing or coming on then its very much possible that the internal evaporator coils get overheated and this makes the ice to get melted.And due to coils getting overheated this is not letting the ice to get formed.The fan needs to be checked.The fan is controlled by the motor and the motor is connected to the control board in the back side of the unit.If the motor connections are got loose then it will not function and due to this fan is not working.check the voltages at power supply to the motor/fan it should be a steady 120vac.But if motor and its connections checked out OK then its confirmed that fan is faulty and needs to be replaced. And yes the other problem is thermistor.The voltage on thermistor needs to be checked.If it shows no or low voltage then it has to be replaced.check out the DC voltages.If it shows like 7.5 volts or 10 to 15 volts then its faulty and the thermistor needs to be replaced. If any of the part is checked faulty .Then For getting required parts you can get it from the online site like www.repairclinic.com Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • coworker26 Jul 05, 2010

    Could you post any logic diagrams or wiring charts for this refrigerator? I'm not really sure if the unit should be cooling before it fills with water -or- if it should fill with water first and then start cooling. There are a few thermistors in the ice compartment. Which one should I mainly be targeting and are the test voltages you suggested the same the other thermistors ?




  • coworker26 Jul 05, 2010

    I have verified the fan is turning on now, and It appears the thermistor check out okay.

    The water/cube tray is moving from side to side, however when it gets to the fill side it is stopping just short of the contact switch. Is it suppose to stop here while the ice cubes are released from the cooling/heating element? It's the only way I can see the ice getting in the bin as the tray never turns upside-down.

    Again.. A logic diagram or some insight of how this particular ice maker works would help here. It's unlike any other icemaker i've owned.




  • raj somaiya
    raj somaiya Jul 08, 2010

    Thanks for keeping updated.

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