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Won't go in spin cycle - Kenmore Washing Machines

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  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    Did you get the make and model #? Kenmore 80 Series

  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    110. 23832 100 type111

  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    It fills with water and agitates

  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    I don't think its the motor coupler because it dont even run when it hits the spin cycle, no noise at all.

  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    No noise of any type, must be the timer switch

  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    Thanks, any place to buy timers for less money than $130.00?

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

Hi. Ok, I will need more information. I see that you have not included your model number. This is very important and I will need this model number before we move forward. Please post this much needed information, asap.

Thanks..

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

  • 7 more comments 
  • Ludon Pybus Jul 04, 2010

    Kenmore 80 series

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    Ok, what you have posted is the generic brand label. I will need the actual unit identification number. i will post a guide below to help you locate this ID tag.



    • TOP LOADERS

    Look at following areas for the model number:

    * Rear Center Of Lid Well
    * Left Upper Back On Base Cabinet
    * Back Top Control Panel
    * Right Rear Corner Of Washer Top Lid
    * Open Lower Left Front Base



    • FRONT LOADERS


    Look at following areas for the model number:

    * Rear Center Of Lid Well
    * Left Upper Back On Base Cabinet
    * Back Top Control Panel
    * Right Rear Corner Of Washer Top Lid
    * Open Lower Left Front Base




    • NOTE_ Remember to only post the model number and not the serial number. The letters 'MO' or 'MN' will be next to the number you will need to post.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    Additionally, if possible, could you take me through what you are experiencing when trying to wash a load. I need to know all the sounds you are hearing and if the unit simply dose not agitate or spin. This will speed up the process, greatly.

    Thanks..


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    Thank you; one moment please...

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced. Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

    Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

    Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port. There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.


    Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. Replace the control device(timer)


    Click here to access a diagram of the top cabinet sections. The suspect lid switch will be labeled number 11 on the diagram and the lid will be labeled number 19.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    I see. Do you notice any clicking noises during the spin attempt?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    Ok, this will be either the timer control module or the lid switch circuit. You can isolate by testing the lid switch circuit.It is located under the top part of the washer cabinet. This section can be lifted off to access the switch mechanism. The diagram will provide you with a visual of how the top part can be removed. Follow my lid switch testing procedure to confirm failure at the lid switch circuit. If it passes the test, replace the timer.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    I suspect the timer as well, but i would test the lid switch circuit to be sure. A faulty lid switch circuit will induce the same symptoms, as well.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 04, 2010

    The cheapest one I can find will be $126.08. Click here to purchase.

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