Question about Refrigerators
HI. I will list below the necessary areas of concern here. You must check all the areas for faults or a non-functional stated.
A. Evaporator Fan-- Make sure that this fan is rotating and operation when the compressor is on and running. This fan is the main air mover. It is mounted near the evaporator behind the freezer concealment panel.
B. Condenser fan- Check to make sure that this fan is indeed rotating fast. This is a crucial area of concern. It is located near the compressor platform, nest to the condenser coils.
C. Compressor - Check this device to insure that it is cycling, properly. This unit must cycle on and off in interval. If it is not cycling, this will be the culprit. If it is cycling properly, place your palm on the smooth round top section. If the compressor is hot to the touch, the coils of condenser fan may be suspect.
D. Main PCB - This is the main control board. It is mounted near the compressor assembly, just behind a access panel, or it may be unconcealed, mounted on a bracket near the compressor platform. Check the board for burn marks at the jumpers and relay sections. If you notice nay discoloration on the board, this will indicate that the board has been compromised. I don't suspect the board as being the culprit at this time, but inspect it to be sure.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
Ok, to star with can you give me the make and model of this unit should the following information not be sufficient?
Typically cooling problems such as you are describing are the result of one of three things.
1. Defective compressor.
2. No defrost occurring as it should be.
3. No condenser fan motor operation causing compressor to over heat and shut down and cooling to stop.
1. I do not suspect a defective compressor as you stated that after defrost it did run at normal temperatures at least part of the night.
2. Refrigerators usually defrost once every 6-8 hours in the warmer more humid summer months. Depending on the brand and model of your fridge, you may have either a mechanical timer that operates defrost mode or possibly an electronic control board.
With mechanical control models the frequency of defrost is pre-determined and there is no variation on timing.
With electronic models the refrigerator actually monitors run times, door openings, and off times to formulate how often it should defrost itself.
A defrost issue sill usually make itself evident by a distinct layer of frost accumulation on the cover for the evaporator (cooling) coils. Depending on the style refrigerator you have the coils are going to be inside the freezer compartment and located behind the back wall. Check for frost build up on the rear panel of the freezer. If you see this, keep in mind the cooling coils behind that panel are about 3 inches thick on average so if you are seeing any signs of frost there is a lot more behind the panel.
No defrost is usually a result of:
-a failed defrost heater, located at the bottom of the coils and should check "closed" for continuity test
- a failed defrost thermostat, located on the top of coils and should also read closed when frozen. The job of this component is to turn the heater off when it gets up to a certain temperature in the evaporator compartment to prevent thawing out any food.
-a failed defrost timer or control board. Defrost timers can be manually turned into defrost mode when being checked, and a quick check of the heater operation after advancing it will confirm the timer is not advancing on it's own. Electronic board testing varys by brand.
3. Stalled condenser fan motor. This item is located in the rear of the refrigerator at the bottom next to the compressor and is intended to draft air across the condenser coils located under the fridge. Should this fail the coils and compressor will become super hot and cause the compressor to shut off on it's thermal protection device.
Look for the obvious, (something caught in the fan blade). If you find nothing blocking the fan blade, and it is not running when the fridge is running, you either have a bad fan motor or a defective control board not sending the voltage to the motor.
In a pinch you can leave the back off the fridge and set up a small fan to cover for the bad part until you get a replacement fan or board. Have done this many a time to keep a fridge alive while the part is on order.
Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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