Question about Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
Now....if the washer attempts to spin, and will not drain, this could be an indication of something lodged in the drain pump or drain lines. These pumps only have one moving part (the impeller) and are direct-driven by the drive motor. So, if you can hear the drive motor running on any of the drain cycles, its a good indication you may have a clog somewhere. The following link explains how to access and remove the drain pump, if required:
You WILL have to drain the wash tub if removing the drain pump. The simplest method of removing the water is to use a wet/dry shop vac and attempt to pull a vacuum on the drain line. Sometimes this can dislodge something trapped. If you can get any water through the drain line, place the shop vac hose directly in the wash tub.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The pump (if required) runs about $35 to $45. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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