Question about Goodman CLQ24AR42 Air Conditioner

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Unit will not start

Is there an electrical schematic available for the condensing unit on line?

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If you are carefull you could push in the contactor at
the condensor and if the unit runs your problem is
either back at the furnace or the thermostat.

Carefull when pushing in the contactor, use a insulated screwdriver and only tuch the plastic black bar in the middle.

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

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Battery charging and control, electric start. Need schematic and parts list.


The UT number for this generator is UT-03559. The problem is like yours can't find anything online in the line parts or owners manuals for this unit. You may try http://www.ktoutdoor.com/
They were listing this number. doesn't mean they have anything on it but might be worth a try.

Here is alternate idea on recharging the battery use a 12 dc ac adapter for recharging while the unit is in use.

Feb 26, 2015 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

How do I replace a outside central air conditioner


First you need to determine if it is a heat pump or straight cool condenser. The reason is the low voltage wiring is different. This is the correct way to install an outside unit.
1.Pad must be level and unit should be secured to withstand 140 mile uplift wind with tie down straps.
2. Make sure breaker size does not exceed max per data sticker on unit. The electrical whip should also be correct wiring size for breaker AMPS.
3. Remove the shard er core valve to prevent damage to it, protect king valve with wet cloth or thermal trap paste to avoid damage. Connect the liquid line small cooper pipe to unit by brazing. Then run through gauges Nitrogen at low psi to prevent shoot build up in line set, now start brazing the suction line large cooper pipe, once finished help cool with water cloth.Check visually for any missed spots and re braze. Once you are comfortable that braze is a good seal now it it pressure test time.
4. (The above procedure is assuming that the inside unit has already been installed correctly, including the line set to unit.)
Through gauges connect Nitrogen compressed gas tank and increase psi in the line set to 350 psi and let stand ten minutes. If pressure is still 350 on both gauges you have a good seal, release the nitrogen into the air and remove tank from hose. Once gauges read 0 psi on both sides high and low you can start the vacuum process. These pressures can differ per refrigerant ( R410A example).
5. Hook up the Vacuum pump to the middle hose from gauges making sure you have replaced the shard er core valve back into the ports.tighten all hoses to any connection on machine, gauges, and pump open gauges and turn on pump allow to run at lest 20 minutes or until you reach 100 microns in a vacuum.Shut, close gauges and shut off pump remove the hose from pump.connect this hose to refrigerant tank and purge to center hose at gauges ( minus) amount of purge.
6. Now you can open the king valve and let refrigerant flow out of the condenser into the line set and air handler otherwise you have to add the refrigerant, newer refrigerant has to be charged into unit in the liquid state not gas state. R410A older refrigerant can be charged in gas state R22.
7. Hook up electrical,breaker off check with volt meter, follow diagram on unit. Then hook up low voltage, for straight cool depends on t-stat and unit witch colors they use follow schematics. I have found that Goodman use blue as common and yellow for cool, make sure that the same colors are used in the air handler to provide the 24 volts to outside contact coil.
If this seams difficult, well it is unless you have the correct training incorrectly done can cause damage to unit and to personal health ..
8. Or call a professional HVAC tech.

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Sep 20, 2014 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hi, I need to relocate the split air conditioner, but I don't know the first step and next steps. Thank you,


If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover.
Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same.
Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!

Apr 01, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Everytime my central air unit kicks on my circuit breaker trips. It didn't do this last year or even earlier this year


A circuit breaker 'tripping' everytime the AC unit kicks on 'most always' indicates a direct short (somewhere in the condensing unit), although it is possible that the breaker itself is bad - (but not likely).

Usually the cause of this 'short' will be - either the condenser motor in the condensing unit (outside unit) or the compressor - also in the condensing unit.

If you're mechanically inclined - and "very careful" around electricity - there is a fairly simple way to find out which component is causing the short.

Step 1 - Make sure the condensing unit (outside unit) is completely disconnected (electrically) , i.e. pull the fuses/turn off circuit breaker on outside unit and turn off thermostat.

Step 2 - disconnect the condenser motor (this is the outside fan motor). Note: when you disconnect the wires of the condenser motor "be sure" you mark/write their location, and wrap them in electric tape.

Step 3 - start the AC unit. If the breaker trips again you can pretty much rest assured it's the compressor that is shorted.

To prove it (without a doubt) - go to next step.

Step 4 - "be sure circuit breaker and thermostat is turned off" - and - 'reconnect' the condenser motor - and - then disconnect the compressor wires (mark wires and tape them).

Step 5 - Start AC.

If breaker doesn't trip - you know it's the compressor that is shorted.

If breaker 'does' trip again - then it's possible the breaker itself is bad (not likely) or there is a 'short' in the condensing unit's "wiring" somewhere (not likely).

My guess is that either the condenser motor or compressor is shorted.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck!

Jun 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Every 1 minute it has a one second surge


Hello Dave,
The first place to start is with the line voltage supplying the condensing unit. Check ALL line voltage connections at the condensing unit, the service disconnect, and the electrical panel box. If you have a weak connection or overheating circuit breaker, it could create these surges.

Don't forget to ensure the filters and coils are clean to keep your system operating at peak performance & efficiency. :-)

May 27, 2010 | Goodman CLJ42AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I purchased a electrolux model # aofp201ru I need


Hi Robert, I repair and install commercial refrigeration and may be of help to you. You need to determine the size of the evaporator coil so you can match up the condensing unit for it. I don't no the voltage that it is, but this makes no difference, just make sure the condensing unit is the same. The condensing unit comes as a package, compressor, defrost clock, everything you need. All you need to do is run your copper, suction, and discharge lines and electrical through the roof and tie in at the evaporator. Install your driers and site glass at roof on your liquid line going back to the compressor.Your new condensing unit will have your power lines out, marked for you to tie into. You will need to set a disconnect box at the condenser. I am not sure what this box has to run, evaporator fans and a thermostat. All other controls will be with condensing unit. Since you are setting this up simular to a walk-in box, if the box didn't come with a txv, ( Expansion valve) you will need the right one for the evaporator to match. A liquid line solenoid valve at the evaporator to start and pump down the unit when the stat is satisfied. It will be wired into the thermostat down below. When you go to the parts house take all of your model, serial, product numbers with you and cubic inches as well. They will fiqure out the size you will need and what you will need. Wiring is very easy doing what you are doing, but if you feel you need a diagram, ask them and they will come up with a drawing for you to work from. They are very helpful if you are getting this condensing unit from a refrigeration parts wholesale house. Thay will tell you exactly what you will need to split this box. I hope I haven't confused you. It is basically very easy, just take your time and you can do this. Best of luck,
Shastalaker7

Feb 04, 2010 | Electrolux ELD-726300 AOFP201RU Blast...

2 Answers

I have a 2 carrier condensing unit. One unit has unstable pressure. What is the possible cause and remedy for this problem?


Unstable pressure, as in fluctuating 10 to 50 PSI in a matter of just a minute or two indicates non condensables in the system.

That's usually air, or moisture.

To correct the problem, recover the refrigerant, install a filter dryer, vacuum the system to a -30 micron vacuum and recharge with refrigerant.

Oct 29, 2009 | Carrier 38CKC042 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I am trying to get an electrical schematic of my RUUD 3.5 Ton condensing unit UAKA-042JAZ. The one that is attached to the inside of the unit's cover is not readable. Where can I get another drawing to...


thers 2 sides of power in the entire unit besides the 24 volt control wires! what are you trying to make run? theres a fan and compressor, both operated off the same contactor!!

Aug 22, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Mr slim 12,000 btu 110 volt


Sounds to me like yo have dirty condenser coils (outside unit) After this runs and gets hot it loads the compressor because it can not release heat out of the condenser coil it also may have a restriction somewhere on the high side that could cause this maybe in a txv or in a line filter.

Hope this helps Ya
please rate me

Jul 20, 2008 | Mitsubishi Mr. Slim MXZ30TN Air...

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