Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

My kenmore washer has only one year-old, right now spin-high is OK, but spin-low seems rotating-speed too slow, always get wet clothes after spin

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  • xiangxiang_c Jul 05, 2010

    There is no foreign material stuck in the tub, if so, it would be impossible that spin-hi work fine and spin-lo has no agitate the clothes in the spin cycle ...
    Is that possible that motor coupler is broken or worn, which caused no full power be sent to the transmission for agitating or spining?

  • xiangxiang_c Jul 09, 2010

    Yes, it is helpful, at least for me to understand the mechanism of Kenmore washer. I very appreciate Jahn27's advices.
    As for if it is a final solution, it's depends on whether the appliance-technician accepts it or not, who will come to my home later; I am just an washer-user with a couple MS degrees in Physics.

  • xiangxiang_c Jul 09, 2010

    Hi Jahn27,

    I have rated your advice this morning. Thank you.

    In fact, I have two Kenmore washers, right now both have problems. I am more concerning about the newer one ( Mode 11029722800 only one-year old) -- its spin-lo broken one week before when I did an over-loading clothes washing. Its spin-hi still work, but I have to put smaller loading for wash. According to your theory, it most likely has brake shoe-not-fully-disengaged issue, that affects clutch assembly not be able to work properly, especially for spin-lo. Am I right?

    My another Kenmore washer (mode 11022622100, has 7-years old) can wash and drain normally, but both spin-high and low not work; when I turn washing-position to "spin" and using a pin press down the lid-switch( i.e. turn it on), I can see the basket not rotate at all. As a result, it gets wet clothes just like the above one. According to your diagnose, you think it could be lid-switch issue. Is it possible be a broken bearing-issue? even if I didn't find any broken pieces ...

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It's definitely not a worn or broken motor coupler issue. Otherwise, the machine will fill and drain but will never agitate nor spin. The issue is most likely to be an issue with the brake and clutch assemblies. The brake shoe assembly must not be fully disengaged during the spin cycle and a slight to moderate friction is introduced. The friction is slight for the high-speed spin cycle and does not obviously affect the speed but it is moderate to severe for the low-speed spin cycle and the speed is greatly affected.

Check the clutch and the brake assemblies. The brake shoes must be released completely from the brake drum when the motor turns in the spin direction and the clutch tab push the brake cam driver and release the brake to allow the basket to spin.
my kenmore washer has only - c7cf0b0.jpg
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Posted on Jul 05, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • xiangxiang_c Jul 05, 2010

    The reason for only spin-high works and spin-low does not work is because two days ago I did an one-time mis-operation on the washer , that is, over-load: it occured when I pick "normal" washing option, other than "heavy Duty" option. Is it true that one time over-loading clothes would cause brake shoe assembly not be fully disengaged?

    After the mis-operation, I immediately took half of the loading away, then re-started. When the washer went to a location between "rinse" and "spin", I heard two-sound of noises like a clutch tried to climb to a high-gear but finally failled.

    Hope these supplemental information could help you make more accurate judgement. Still do you think that definately not a motoe coupler issue?

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Jul 05, 2010

    Thanks for the information and it did help confirm my theory. The sound when the washer goes to the location between "rinse" and "spin where it fails definitely confirms the brake and clutch assembly issue. It is the location on the timer where the motor rotates in the spin direction and the clutch tab pushes the brake cam driver and release
    the brake to allow the basket spin freely. And yes, a one time overloading clothes could cause the brake shoe assembly not be
    fully disengaged as manifested here. Lastly, I'm pretty sure, about 101%, that it is not an issue with the motor
    coupler as long as the machine agitates and spin.

  • xiangxiang_c Jul 08, 2010

    One more trivial quetion for you: when washer agitats/spins, which part is rotating? the basket or the tub? I think should be basket other than tub, right? So if I start the washer for spin, and didn't see the basket rotating (not be confuse, this is my another washer, not the one with works in spin-hi, while not works in spin-lo), then it probably be motor coupler wrong, am I right? Motor coupler worn-out should affect both spin-lo and spin-hi, not just spin-lo, correct?



    Thank you for help,

    -Chen

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Jul 09, 2010

    The agitator is the one on the center of the tub and it works/agitates/moves only during the wash cycle. The basket, not the tub, is the one that rotates during the spin cycle. If the machine does not agitate during the wash cycle and does not spin both high and low during the spin cycle but drains, then the motor coupler is definitely broken. The washer will just fill and drain and do nothing if the motor coupler is broken, but if the washer agitates agitate during the wash cycle but does not spin both high and low during
    the spin cycle and does not drain, then the issue is with the lid switch.

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  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Jul 09, 2010

    Regarding the newer machine, yes my theory is a brake shoe-not-fully-disengaged issue. About the older machine, it's definitely not an issue with the lid switch, otherwise the machine will not drain. And I don't believe the issue is a broken bearing but rather an issue with the transmission.

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  • Master
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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Open the top cover off and check for any foreign objects stuck in the tub. If there are no objects stuck then put the washer in spin and see if the spin basket turns freely. If not and makes a grinding sound then bearings have gone bad. Now pull the front panel off and check for leaking tub bearing. If ok, remove belt and check water pump for bad bearings. If it is fine then turn the pulley counterclockwise. If hard to turn, remove bottom of pulley dust cover and confirm pulley cam move to the open section of the shoulder. If not, adjust it to allow complete brake release. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

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