a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I would go back with the ballcock kind. However, the flapper will need to be replaced. It is not seating properly. The fluid master is a revised version and a bit more efficient. It should work well also. They both work off buoyancy and shuts off water the same way.
Turn off the water at the supply (under the toilet, usually).Flush the tank to remove all water from the tank.Disconnect the supply from the tank.Remove bolt caps or bolt covers from where the toilet bolts to the bathroom floor.Remove bolts from the floor flange. When you lift the toilet up, you'll see a metal or plastic flange. If the toilet has been there for a long time the bolts may not pull out of the flange easily. In this case you may have to use a small hacksaw to cut the bolt below the nut.Put newspaper or an old towel on the floor so you can place the old toilet on it. Lift the toilet off the flange.Take the new bowl (assuming this is a two-piece toilet) and turn it upside down. Position the wax ring on the horn of the outlet. Install new solid brass flange bolts, mount them and position them on the centerline on either side of the outlet.Push the bowl down over the bolts and seal the outlet. The wax will squeeze down and seal.Put the new bolts, washers and bolt caps on. You may have to trim the bolt with a hacksaw.Once the bolts are secure, mount the tank.Make sure the gasket between the tank and toilet is in place. Then position the tank on the bowl. Run bolts through the tank and secure. Don't over tighten (the tank can crack).Hook up the water supply line.Connect the supply to the line on the bottom of the tank.Turn on the water.Let the tank fill.Flush once or twice to make sure the water control is properly adjusted.Put the tank lid on.Enjoy. ford performance chip.
ok, this sounds like a float or valve issue, should be an easy fix. you can adjust the float or just replace it with the one piece type. you may not be able to adjust it and get it to work, so I think the best thing to do is just replace the whole float assembly. About ten dollars or so at home depot or someplace like that. Turn off the supply valve, flush the toilet,and drain the tank by removing the plastic nut underneath on the left side. Drain the remaining water into a bowl. There is also a nut on the supply line that will need to be removed first. When you remove the nut that is flush with the bottom of the tank that also holds the valve in place inside. Take off the rubber hose inside the tank and remove the entire float and valve. The new one piece will have a adjustment for the tank level by just turning the entire unit. Make sure you put the rubber washer that is supplied with it on the bottom and put it back into the tank and tighten from the bottom with the new plastic nut. Make sure the valve inside is pointed at the plastic tube and re-attach the rubber hose. Then attach the supply line, tight, but not with a tool, just your hand. Turn on the supply valve, re-fill the tank, flush, and check for leaks. Remember, buy the one piece type, should be a gray valve with a black float built right on it. Good luck
Not being a plumber by trade I don't want to bad mouth what your plumber had to say but there may be other things to consider.
If the toilet does not flush directly into the main drain there is the possibilty that the coupling between the main drain and the toilet drain is under-sized which could cause reduced water flow and your toilet not flushing completely.
I've never had a problem with Eljer toilets. Try adjusting the fill valve so that it allows more water to enter the tank (if you're over the flush valve, install a coupler made from PVC around the neck of the flush valve- inside diameter of the coupler needs to be the same as the outside diameter of the flush valve filler neck).
sound like the water shut-off needs to be replaced.
if you turn on/off the shut-off, the tank get enough water to flush, then you get less water every time you use the toilet. that is the shut-off valve problem.
you may able to to just change the rubber seal.
I have not found change the seal will last as long as a new valve. better off, just change one.