Cleaned coils/cage, a/c blows better but no longer cold
Okay so today, there was little/no air flow from the vents but it was cold air, maybe from the ice, and sure enough, the coils were frozen over and the blower was dirty. I cleaned the blower and my brother thawed and cleaned the coils. Immediately I could tell the air was forced/blowing harder but it was no longer cold. Just yesterday and in weeks before it was perfectly cold. I had this unit recharged last year, and it worked great, sat all winter, worked great again up until now. So, if this thing has a leak is it possible to be that slow to just now start losing it's ability to cool? Tomorrow I'm going to check the wire for the compressor inside the thermostat, b/c last time I had this issue of warmish air blowing, that was the culprit. So I guess my question is..can it all of a sudden be a leak and if so, what's the estimated cost to repair (cannot afford to replace) the leak?
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Re: Cleaned coils/cage, a/c blows better but no longer...
It would not be a slow leak, but you don't know, if your brother punchtured the coil. If the unit is less than 5 years old, it should be still under warrenty. If it is the coil, depending on the make . say lennox heat pump. the coil is $1,700.00, Coils are all different prices. It might be cheaper to replace whole unit. SORRY
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check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? CHECK
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
In most fridges, the cooling coils are in the freezer section. The other section is cooled by air flowing from the freezer section.There should be a valve/vent/knob that allows more or less air to flow from the freezer. Adjust this to maximum cold to see it the temp changes. Or is 64 degrees too cold for you?
Most of the time... the gas valves work or dont work... I would try taken off the vent hose all together and check to make sure you have a good blow or flow of air out at the exhast of dryer and to see if you are really getting heat out of it. also if you look close in the back thu the wholes back there you should be able to see if you burner is firing or not
Sounds like there's an airflow problem to the top section. Things that cause no cold air to the top fridge section are... frozen up coils completely blocking most of air flow (defrost cycle not working), evap fan not working to blow air up to fridge, air control dampers in fridge closed or not working properly, or frozen air ducts supply/return.
Pull the whole drawer out the bottom and take the rear inside back off to expose the coils. If they are frozen solid the defrost t-stat or defrost timer could be bad (heat element not usually bad). If there is a nice white frost all over evenly then that's OK. Check that the fan is running when the compressor is running to blow the air up and that there are no blocked air ducts, etc. If all that is good, check if you can feel good air flow from the upper vents with the lower door closed (that shows there is no blockage and the fan is running).