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Hi, This sounds like either a power supply issue or the ''fridge is completely knackered. Check that the power supply to the 'fridge is working. Check for an internal fuse in the 'fridge, if there's one there, is it working?
On the back side of the unit there will be a small thermostat switch mounted on the heat column. It will be round with two wires attached to it. In the center is a reset button. If this button does not restore power then the next step is to replace the wire coming from 12v supply to the thremostat switch. The wire will be red and will have a black sleeve on it. Under the sleeve is a safety diode (to prevent overheating and fire), it will be held in place with three bendable metal fingers. If the diode is bad it will not allow 12v power to pass through to the circuit board. Even though the refrigerator is running on 110v power the circuit board still requires 12v power to operate. The diode is a part of a FREE recall kit offered by Dometic so your local RV repair center should be able to help you out.
Unplug hydro plug to fridge. Remove cover on circuit board. Follow wires from heating element, to terminals on circuit board. ( probably J7 and J8 ) . With an AC volt meter or multimeter set to AC voltage, turn fridge on hydro, and leave door open on fridge so that it calls for cooling. To be sure it's calling for cool, try gas first, when it's starts, you know it's calling for cool, then switch to AC operation. Now test for voltage at the 2 terminals that the heating element were/are attached to. If you get 100-120 VAC, then replace the heating element. If not get back to me and I'll walk you through a couple more tests.
If your fridge quit working altogether, check your DC fuses in the fuse box, as well as the back of the fridge under the black plastic cover (3 amp). Though the fridge uses LP and 120vac to cool, it is controlled by 12 volts.
Three way fridge: 1: Runs on 12 volts from the trailer batteries. Hard on power and uses batteries frightfully fast. 2: Runs on propane. This is best for places where there is no 120volt power lines. This still needs 12 volts to CONTROL the fridge so have a battery on board. 3: Runs on 120 volts. Great if you can plug in the trailer.
I also had the same Model Make. I removed my fridge and placed it upside down, occasionally shaking fridge within a 24 hr period. This seemed to re-mix the ammonia solution and the fridge is working. This may work for you but look for yellow stains if you see any your fridge is leaking and would require repair.
Ok, I realize I'm a little late on chiming in here, is this unit located in a slideout, and/or the top outside vent is in the wall not a roof located vent?
If so then the issue is that there are fans that are necessary to circulate air thru the hot coils. And there is probably a malfuntioning thermostat to turn these fans on/off. I had this issue with same fridge in a Gulfstream motorhome, and the temporary fix was to pull the faston connectors off the thermostat and tied them together with a 12V fuse, and taped it up with electrical tape to keep it from shorting on fridge chassis and parts. Replace the thermostat at your conveniance, as these fans are now running whenever fridge is on, and will run your batteries down if not plugged into shore power.
If you have the yellow epoxy filled circuit board from around 1993-1996 rather than the green newer one you can see the circuits on (take the black cover at back of fridge off to check) it is most likely just a bad circuit board. Otherwise it is most likely low voltage or a bad ground on the 12volt power coming into the fridge. Also make sure your thermostat(if available) is on maximum during testing.