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Drain the water weekly. IF you really want to dish out the money you can get an Ultraviolet sanitizer or even an ozone generator but those are made to work with chemicas like chlorine or bromine, not stand alone, also for pools. And even then you would have to manage the ph somehow and that can only be done by replacing water or some kind of acid. Chlorine tabs now a days usually take care of both trichlor being slightly acidic for such a small body of water takes care of both. If you have some kind of chlorine smell from your spa and you are not sitting right next to a chlorine floater then you have a problem with the chemical balance and is a byproduct of chloramines.
If it seems clowdy now it is probably low on chlorine and unless this is corrected it will turn green in within a day or two. My suggestion is that you bring a sample of your water to a pool supply store and they will test it. If you have filled the pool recently with new water the two things you should be most concerned about are chlorine, stabilizer ph and alkalinity. Since your pool is clowdy the chlorine should be about 10 ppm and the stabilizer should be between 30 and 50 ppm. If you are short on stabilizer the chlorine will be gone very soon. If you have too much stabilizer the chlorine will say in the pool but it won't be as effective. Since the water is new the ph and alkalinity should be ok but the source of your water might be poor. Alkalinity is based on the amount of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) in the water. If the level is right it helps keep the ph stable. Most municipalities supply water with 80 ppm of sodium bicarbonate in order to maintain their ph more easily. If the ph is too high it is base and causes the chlorine to be not as effective and it causes other problems when it is too low. Adding acid to the pool reduces the ph and adding sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate increases the ph. Since the water is new I would automatically shock the pool to 10 ppm of chlorine and treat with stabilizer to 30 ppm and then see how it goes. I wouldn't let anyone swim until the chlorine drops to between 2 and 4 ppm, the pool bottom is clearly visible and no dirt, etc is visible. I hope this helps.
Yes, what is your stabilizer level? It should be between 30 and 50 ppm. If the stabilizer is too low then the sun will cause the chlorine to dissipate faster than the chlorinator can produce it. Some salt chlorinator manufactures recommend 80ppm but that reduces the chlorine efffect. If you can't get the chlorinator working then using a floating tablet chlorinator is a good option to keep the pool open. I hope this helps.
I have an 18 X 33 oval and temparatures here range from 80 to 102 in the summer. I run my cycles at 10 to 12 hrs pump with 8 to 10 hrs chlorinator. Water stays crystal clear, no cloudy.. Now...if you don't keep the electrolytic cell clean and maintain the proper salt levels, you will struggle with making free chlorine... Hope I helped??? AND... I HAVE NOT ADDED ANY CHEMICALS TO MY POOL IN THE 2 YEARS I'VE HAD MY INTEX SYSTEM...
You should always follow the instructions on the manual .. I have a 18X33X4 oval and had to start with over 350 lbs of salt and ran the pump without the chlorinator for 24 hours to properly disolve the salt. Then, I started with 12 hrs pump cycle with 10 hrs of chlorination in between the 12 hrs. Keep checking the chlorine level and adjust time from there. Currently at temperatures of 85 to 100, I run the system at 10 hrs pump with 8 hrs chrlorinator and water is Crystal Clear... In the 2 years with the intex system, I have not added any chemicals to my pool. I once had an issue when the water level went low while I was on vacation, when I came back, the chrolinator had turned off due to low flow and my pool water was green.. As soon as I re-started the cycle, a few days later, Crystal Clear again... NO CHEMICALS OR SHOCK added.... Hope this helps....
I am not impressed at all with these salt water chlorinators.Shock the water and keep the filter running next day add a powdered chlorine.filter still running. check the balance with test strip in about four hours.If chlorine level is good start vacuming the algee off the bottom of the pool. Now throw away the salt generator and stay with the chlorine packs every week to two weeks continue to monitor with test strips
depending on the type/brand of salt cell/system you have I would recommend turning it to its lowest setting or off. Most salt cells don't measure chlorine level and will keep producing even if its crazy high. Most cells produce chlorine at about 8.0pH, so it will keep raising your pH as it generates. I would leave it off for a couple of days, get control of your pH and keep measuring your free chlorine level until it's acceptable. If you need to lower your chlorine level quickly you can use sodium thiosulfate to do so. You will have to add acid frequently to compensate for the salt system. Keep an eye on the TA as adding alot of acid will eventually lower your TA as well. Hope this helps.
although you may or may not have enough chlorine in your pool you must also realize that a pool need turned over at least 3 times a day.
an example is if you have 7000gl of water and a 2000gph pump you need to filter at least 10 hours or so.
More important than chlorine is the actual circulation of the water you can have all the chlorine in the world but if you do not have the circulation the water will become cloudy or green this also happens when you have no swimmers for days at a time
the filtration time is over and above the chlorine generating time your 4 hours a night for generating chlorine sound like you are guessing sometimes it may be 4 and sometimes 2 or 6
it depends on # of swimmers a day sun and what was in the pool to start
It is important to have a test kit for ph and chlorine and keep chlorine at 1.0to 1.5 now set your ph
ph will rise and fall with your chlorine level one you have them set good at the first time then ph should stay safe enough and re level as chlorine is kept right
also remeber that the wrong ph causes more problems than wrong chlorine levels
Also make sure your salt is no more than 3000ppm and no higher like some people recommend and no lower than 2500 test kits are available for 10 dollars
all of this can be found on intex.com either in a video or pdf files for water capacity and approximate time for generating chlorine.
no chemicals needed -Test strip are not as accurate as liquid kits buy one for about 10 dollars
Also since it is a new set up you shouls run the chlorine generator for at least 8 hours.
Make sure your chlorine light comes on ( about 5 minutes sometimes a little longer after you set the timer)
Also get a test kit to detect salt 10 dollars for 10 tests Keep it as close to 3000ppm as you can the higher you go past this amount the saltier the water can taste
do not go below 2500 you do not want to have to be bothered adding salt for splash out or rain.
starting at 3000ppm gives you a long time before needing to add for the splash out or rain with these factors you only loose about 25-35ppm's when refilling and so on so it is a long way to 2500
One other pointer is to make sure you filter your pool enough. It is recommended to turn your pool water over at least 3 times a day
as an example I will use my 7000gallon pool with my 2000gl pump thats about 10 hours a day just for filtering. This does not include how long you need to leave the generator on to produce the amount of chlorine to produce a 1.0 or a 1.5 setting Also keep in mind that chlorine affects the ph so chlorine needs sel first before you worry about ph so once both are set then watch as the chlorine drops so will ph but once you run the generator to rebuild the chlorine level the ph will come up by itself. Ph will cause more problems with eye irritation and cloudy water than chlorine
Salt is sodium chloride, you can only measure salt levels now as your CL (cloride) is bound to a NA (sodium). Table salt =NACL, Your Intex system will tell you if your salt level is too high or too low but your old test equipment for free chlorine will continue to tell you no chlorine as it can't react with the chloride any longer as it is bound to the salt. That is why they tell you you never have to add more because the salt stabilizes it. Your chlorine is there it's bound to the salt. Use the pool it's fine and it makes your water feel really soft! Just keep the salt level right and your fine> It's confusing as they call the unit a chlorine generator! I had the same issue, called Intex and they told me the above.