Question about Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

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My ammco 4100 lathe is cutting like the arbor is bent but I dont think it is? when cutting a rotor it acts like it is cocked sideways therefore cutting oppsite on each side of the rotor.....any ideas?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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You might try buying a manual for it. There is one on E-bay right now. might be $14.00 well spent.

Hope this helps.


Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 22, 2010

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The problem isn't clearly explained. but the main shaft bearings go bad after awhile and it's one day thier good the next job their bad.

Posted on May 13, 2010

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I bought an Ammco 4000 brake lathe and the arbor was not installed in it. The one they gave me has surface rust on it. It will not fit into the spindle either. I'm not sure on got the correct one. What is...

A standard arbor which you should have been provided with should look like this...


The standard arbor size is 1 inch.
A used arbor is okay--but if it has rust on it, you should remove the rust with a wire-wheel mounted on a bench grinder (and be sure to use eye protection because fast spinning wire-wheels routinely throw off wires).

Any arbor (especially new arbors) have to be lapped into the spindle using a fine lapping compound which can be easily found at auto parts stores.

Apply a small amount of lapping compound onto the mating surface of the arbor and insert it into the spindle with the machine turning. Hold the arbor tight and let the lapping compound grind away for about 40 seconds.

Remove the arbor and reapply another small amount of lapping compound--repeat the grinding process one more time. Remove the arbor and using a rag clean the lapping compound from the arbor.

Clean the lapping compound from the outer spindle seat. The outer seat is easily accessed--the inner seat of the spindle is harder to access. This is cleaned by doubling a rag over the threaded end of the arbor. Holding the rag, insert the threaded end into the spindle and clean the inner seat.

Turn off the machine and insert the arbor into the spindle. Insert the spindle "draw bar" (which you should also have) through the hole in the drum gear box (Infimatic gearbox) on the right hand side of the machine.

Holding the drive pulley, tighten the draw bar.

Next you have to check the arbor run-out using a magnetically mounted dial indicator as shown....


Mount the dial indicator on the machine's twin cutter (tightened down) and crank in the disc-feed carriage until the dial indicator can make contact with the arbor.

Start the machine. The arbor run-out should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. If the run-out exceeds greater than 8 thousandths it cannot be straightened. Arbor with slight run-out problems can be straightened.

(Note: If the dial indicator vibrates too much to get a reading--you will have to manually turn the machine using a wrench as described below).

First try loosening the draw bar, and rotating the arbor 180 degrees and then re-tightening the draw-bar. Many time this will solve the problem or at the very least lessen the run-out or bring it within spec.

If the arbor is still exceeds spec, then you have to straighten it. To straighten an arbor, manually turn the machine with the "Ammco wrench" (which you should also have) using the nut on the draw bar. Turn the machine until you find the high spot (straight up), then remove the dial indicator to prevent damage.

Using a copper dead blow hammer, give the arbor a modest whack, and then recheck the run-out. Repeat the process until you manage to get the arbor within spec.

Please note that straightening an arbor using this method will sometimes break the arbor off. You are rolling the dice when straightening an arbor--but this is the nature of the animal. Even brand new arbors sometimes need straightening.

If you need more questions answered contact us at...

Mar 14, 2015 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

1 Answer


Not enough rigidity, wrong speed, wrong feed rate, wrong depth of cut, wrong or dull tooling...

Feb 03, 2012 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

1 Answer


Most likely you have a stripped out "disc feed screw."
This is a common problem I see several times a month in the field.
The stripped out portion of the screw is near the end of the feed range obviously.

If you need parts or more questions answered....

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Jan 22, 2012 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

1 Answer

Instructions for changing an ammco 3000 brake lathe to a 4000. Parts needed?

Yes, an Ammco 3000 brake lathe can be converted over to a 4000 model--most any year 3000.... preferably the later years after 1970.

The problem with some of the early 60's models is that the cross-feed bore is not perfectly perpendicular to the spindle.

If you convert one of these models, you will cut the rotor at an angle and then jam the machine.

Later models can easily be converted.

You will need...

1) A complete disc feed gearbox.
2) A driven pulley (the big one) set-up for a with a pin drive.
3) A complete spindle lock assembly for the Infimatic gearbox.
4) Possibly need a longer guide bar for the cross-freed. If you have a round guide bar, this is possibly long enough. If you have a "Double-D" guide bar (flat on each side), you most likely will need a longer bar.
5) A complete twin-cutter, with tool guides, tool holders, knobs, etc.

We have all the parts you need for a conversion--or we can convert it expertly for you...

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Aug 03, 2011 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

3 Answers

Brake lathe chattering bad

There's a lot of reasons why a brake lathe chatters during a cutting operation. They range from lack of maintenance, adjustments, cutting speeds, wrong cutting tools and so on and so forth.

Be a little more specific.

What kind of machine are you using?
What are you cutting? (rotors? drums?)
Are you using the proper silencers?

Come back with some answers please.

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Dec 16, 2010 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

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Hi, we have a AMMCO 7750 brake lathe, the problem is runout in the ARBOR we have replaced the arbor but still have the same result. We are unsure of hat is causing this so any help or advise would be...

First off--your model Ammco is their "El-Cheapo" model.
Yeah, they work, when they work that is.
I doubt that your problem lies within the spindle bearings. But it could-- I suggest that you tug on the spindle to see if you get any back and forth end-play, or up and down play.... if so, you are screwed. This machine is not worth the effort, money and time fix this problem.

As for the arbor...

This model uses the same arbor that the better 3000, 4000, 4100, 7000 and 7100 models.

Every time you replace an arbor (new or used) you have to...

A. Lap the arbor into the spindle using lapping compound (just like lapping valves in a cylinder head) The lapping compound is then cleaned out of the spindle and off the arbor, then...

B. You then have to check the "runout" with a dial indicator. These are obtained cheaply at Harbor Freight FYI. With the dial indicator mounted (magnetically) on the twin-cutter check the arbor run-out. The runout (two inches from the spindle) should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. One thousandth or under is optimal. Any reading over 8 thousandths cannot be straightened.

C. If the run out exceeds 1 1/2 thousandths, you have to then straighten the arbor.

To straighten the arbor you will again need the dial-indicator and a heavy copper hammer....

With a wrench on the end of the draw bar (far right on the end of the drum gearbox), rotate the machine (counter clockwise) until you find the high spot on the arbor (carefully watching the dial-indicator).

Remove the dial indicator and give the arbor a whack with the hammer (not too hard if this is your first time) when the high spot is directly straight up.

Install the dial-indicator and check the run-out again.

Sometimes you will get it on the first whack--sometimes you will have to go through an ordeal until you get the arbor in spec.

And remember--sometimes you can bust the arbor completely off on the first whack. They are hardened and allegedly tempered, but some are more hard than others. If it breaks off--tough luck. You need to get another arbor.

I have personally straightened arbors more than 30 thousandths out (once)... and I don't want to repeat that ordeal. Sometimes arbors cannot be straightened (bent in strange ways) and cannot be straightened.

When loosening a rotor, do not allow the work to dump onto the arbor. This is the main reason they go out of whack.

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Jun 29, 2010 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

2 Answers


The problem isn't clearly explained. but the main shaft bearings go bad after awhile and it's one day thier good the next job their bad.

May 13, 2010 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

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