I bought a kodiak 22 lb. Plow anchor and it has three holes in it including the sloted on at the end. Does anyone know what hooks to where?

Check fuses first, then go from there to ignition system.

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This is a list of All the parts you need, I don't know about a schematic?

1 Maple Neck ? 1 11" wood rim ? 1 11" notched tension hoop ? 1 Flat head alloy tone ring (Optional bell brass available) ? 1 Resonator (not included in the open back kit) ? 1 11" Remo frosted banjo head ? 1 Arm Rest ? 2 Coordinator rods with hanger bolts (one longer than the other) ? 1 "L" shaped tailpiece bracket (may be attached to coordinator rods) ? 1 5th string nut ? 4 Guitar style tuners (planetary tuners optional) ? 1 Geared 5th string tuning machines ? 24 Shoe style lugs with bolts and washers ? 24 Hooks and nuts ? 1 Nut, pre notched ? 4 Resonator plates ? 4 Brass inserts (brass anchors that are threaded on the inside) ? 4 Resonator bolts (knurled on the outside with a Phillips screwdriver receiver on top) ? 1 5 string bridge ? 1 Gary Price style Tailpiece ? 1 Set of strings ? 22 Pre-cut (ready to install) frets ? 1 Truss rod cover (including three screws)

if it has the briggs and stratton engine this is prettry straight forward pass new cable (anchor end) thru control console and seat it with a "click" then locate the area between the gas tank and the engine block to see about finding slide cam that other end of cable connects too it has three holes drilled thru it locate the middle hole and holding new cable at a 90 degree angle pass end thru hole push in till you reach bend in cable now move cable down to horizontal posisition now place spiral covering under screw clamp at bottom of bracket on gas tank and tighten with wrench (right angle) this point might need some adjustement after starting to achive choke and full throttle but thats about it

I just bought a Snow-way series 22 plow 3 months ago and the remote has lost signal and get it back to responding, any ideas

Just installed a few of those last week. A stud finder is your best bet. They've become very inexpensive and you will use it throughout the years so put it in your arsenal of tools. I recommend the Zircon brand (under $25). They offer several price ranges but the one I like and recommend has a deep scan mode and also shows you where both sides of the stud start as well as the center.

If you want an old fashion method, start by measuring from a corner and you should have a stud at approx. every 16". Tapping on the wallboard is not uncommon so you can hear the difference in the sound as you go from a hollow sound (no stud) to a more solid sound. When you think you've found the stud use a small nail to tap through the sheetrock, make sure your nail is at least 1 1/2" long, the sheetrock is 1/2" thick and you need something you can hold without hitting your finger while nailing. I have an old leather awl that I use and don't know if you can buy them anymore but if you find one grab it. If you've picked the right spot while tapping you'll hit the stud behind the wallboard using your nail. Move over about 1/2" at a time until you drive the nail into the wallboard and it doesn't hit a stud on either side and you'll have both sides of the stud located. The cover plate on you grab bar will cover the extra holes, if you didn't miss by much. If you have some exposed, because they're so small, they'll be easy to fill and touch up.

Another option is to use the new EZ anchors. They now have one that's rated at 30 lb. each and the grab bars should have three mounting holes on each end which gives you 90 lb. per side or a total gripping strength of 180 lbs. Unless the person you are installing for is over this weight you should be in good shape to use only the EZ anchors. My guess is that in the process of using the EZ anchors you're going to hit at least one stud and then you can use the longer screw provided by the manufacturer which will significantly increase you gripping strength.

With a masonry drill bit, drill a hole that will fit a masonry anchor then screw it into the anchor.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable, then disengage the alternator drive belt from the alternator pulley.
2. Raise and support the vehicle, then remove the righthand wheel and tire.
3. Remove the righthand outer tie rod end from righthand spindle.
4. Remove exhaust system Y pipe as follows:

1. Remove the front and rear Y pipe flange fasteners from the exhaust manifolds.
2. Remove the stud bolt and nut retainer from the oil pan, then remove the two remaining nuts and bolts from U pipe outlet connection.
3. Discard the exhaust converter inlet gasket, then remove the Y pipe.

1. Disconnect wire harness attachments to integral alternator/voltage regulator, then remove the alternator brace bolts from the alternator.
2. Remove the righthand halfshaft.
3. Remove the alternator bolts from bracket, then rotate the alternator and remove it through the righthand side of the vehicle.
4. Remove the bracket bolts and bracket from the cylinder block.
5. Reverse the procedure to install, noting the following:

1. Torque the alternator bracket bolts to 15-22 ft lb.
2. Torque the alternator bolts to 29-40 ft lb.
3. Torque the alternator brace bolts to 15-22 ft lb.
4. Torque the output terminal nut to 6.7-8.1 ft lb.

If you have a quick release, you'll need to remove the release out of the wheel and then put it through the anchor and attach release back on.. If you have a nut, undo the nut, put the anchor on and then put the nut back on. Insert the end of the trailer into the large hole of the anchor and fasten the pin.. then attach the safety cable by wrapping it around the frame of the bike...

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-kv-and-reg-shelf-anchor--pi-1294531.html I bought a shelf anchor and a 5/8" x 12" x 36" shelf for around $30 including screws, mounted the shelf on the wall and placed my LCD TV on the shelf. City Mill and Ace Hardware aezd4csells them.