Question about GE AJCQ08ACB Air Conditioner

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Ice is build inside the unit,why? and of course is not cooling any more. Do I need a new one?

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The majority of the time ice build up is caused by dirty coils inside or outside. It could be a low freon problem but if it hasn't been cleaned it is definitely worth a try before buying a new one. A toilet cleaning brush usually works well. Brush up and down so as not to bend the fins on your coils and rinse the outside coil with water. You don't want to wash the inside coil with it in the window as it is messy. Make sure it is unplugged when doing this. High water pressure can also bend the fins on the coils so don't get carried away. 75 to 80 percent of all air conditioner service calls are solved by cleaning the coils.

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks for your advice you were right i had this ac for two years now and has not been clean, after doing this is working perfectly fine."

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Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

The Poor cooling that you are facing is caused due to the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer, The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch), The defrost heater. Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

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The second can be a little more complicated if your not tech savoy. You can turn the system on in the cooling mode. This will make the outdoor coil the condenser section. Then, either block the airflow through the coils with an object, put an object over the fan to increase pressure, or if you can, disconnect the fan so it does not run. This method is essentially the same as a defrost cycle.

As with any failure, you can fix the problem at hand, but it will return. After you get past this, your real challenge will be determining what caused the freeze-up.


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